Author: Lucy Seligman

Japantown on Sawtelle in Los Angeles

Japantown on Sawtelle in Los Angeles is about as close to Japan as we’ve been able to get these last two years. As someone who considers Japan to be a second home, the inability to travel to Japan has been rough. One thing that helped (a little anyway…) is knowing I’m not alone in missing Japan. I’d like to introduce my friend Sheila Stone. Sheila loves travel so much that she started her own tour company when she was 60! And today she’s sharing with us some of her favorite spots in Japantown on Sawtelle:

Japantown on Sawtelle in Los Angeles

After two years Japan is finally open! But at this point, there are still some caveats.

Unless you are a student, business traveler, or relative of long-term/permanent residents, you are required to take a pre-approved packaged tour. This means no solo travel yet. You also will need to apply for a visa in advance. Although independent travelers cannot yet enter Japan, there are some signs that they may be able to do so starting in the fall or later. Of course, it goes without saying that you will need to be vaccinated and wear a mask whenever it’s asked of you.

While we’re waiting for the rules to relax, let me tell you about a special place in Los Angeles where your Japanese food dreams can come true. Sawtelle Japantown isn’t as big or as well-known as Little Tokyo in downtown LA, but it packs a big punch.

The Best Places to Eat in Japantown on Sawtelle

There are literally dozens of places to eat and drink in its small two-block area. The restaurants used to be all Japanese but, over the past few years, that has expanded to include Korean, Filipino, Taiwanese, and even a couple of Mexican places.

In no particular order, here are some of my favorites:

Beard Papa’s

Who can resist freshly-filled cream puffs? Not me! Which is why Beard Papa’s definitely tops the list.

They don’t fill them until you place your order, and the combination of a crispy shell with creamy filling is truly a delight. Vanilla, chocolate, and green tea custards are always available and sometimes they also offer seasonal fillings (such as pumpkin). The shells can be plain or frosted with chocolate, matcha, strawberry, or even have a s’more topping. They have other desserts too. Everything I’ve ever had there was scrumptious! Their creampuffs run $3.75-4.25 each – buy 5 get one free.

Mochi Dochi

Deep-fried mochi hot dogs at Mochi Dochi! You start by choosing which combination of meat, veggie-dog, or cheese you want. Then pick a batter – plain, squid-ink, or jalapeno-curry. Finally, the dipped dog gets rolled in your choice of potato cubes, sweet potato cubes, or chopped onion. Then it’s all deliciously fried and this is heaven on a stick. Mochi dogs cost between $4.99-6.99, depending on your choices.

Anzu

This tiny storefront (there is no indoor seating) has a small menu but they serve some of the best karaage I’ve ever had, including in Japan. You can’t beat freshly made, crispy pieces of chicken with tasty dipping sauces. Try the ponzu! It’s just off Sawtelle on La Grange – but definitely worth a walk around the corner! I recommend the Karaage; it’s $6.75 for 5 pieces and 1 dip.

Marugame Udon

Marugame Udon is a Japanese chain offering both delicious udon soup and a selection of tempura options. I go in for the tempura shrimp and the tempura sweet potato. Interesting story, when I led my 2019 tour to Japan, the second night we were eating at the food court of Tokyo Skytree. Guess where I got my dinner? Bowls of udon run from $5.95-13.95 and tempura is between $1.95-2.25 per piece.

SomiSomi

Taiyaki is a fish-shaped, waffle-like treat that’s usually filled with anko (sweet red bean paste). The taiyaki at SomiSomi are freshly made and come with your choice of fillings – cheddar, Nutella, custard, taro, and Oreo, in additional to anko. They also sell the Korean treat Ah-Boong – fish-shaped cones filled with soft serve ice cream. They are cool-looking as well as delicious! Taiyaki are 3 for $3.95 and 6 for $6.70 and Ah-Boong run about $6.00-$7.00.

SunMerry Bakery

Two words: mochi doughnuts. And another three words: Hokkaido Cream Cakes. You can’t go wrong with either choice. SubMerry Bakery also offers beautiful cakes that are perfect for a birthday or other celebration. This is a tiny place, but their treats are so freaking good! Both mochi doughnuts and Hokkaido cream cakes are $2.00 now.

B-Sweet

B-Sweet‘s specialty is many kinds of bread pudding but my favorite choices are ube (purple sweet potato) delights. Since it’s Filipino, I might be cheating a bit putting it into this Japanese blog post but ube is used a lot in Japan so I’m going with it. If you get lucky, B-Sweet’s Ube pop tarts might be on the menu, which is the most fun Asian-American mashup I know! If they’re out of the pop tarts, opt for the Ube Cheesecake.

The purple is so vivid it’s hard to believe they didn’t pour in a whole bottle of food coloring, but that’s the natural color of these delicious tubers. And the taste is SO good! The menu changes often but desserts run between $5.00-7.00.

Kaz – The Soba Place

Kaz‘s soba is delicious served either hot or cold. But they also have something I’ve never seen anywhere else – tempura cherry tomatoes! Sweet, salty little bites of goodness – just be cautious of the internal temperature of these babies. Oba is $7.00-13.75 and the delicious little tempura cherry tomatoes will only set you back $2.75!

Chinchikurin

Have you had the delicious savory pancake called okonomiyaki? It comes in two variations – Hiroshima-style, in which the ingredients are layered – and Osaka-style, in which the ingredients are all mixed together. Chinchikurin serves Hiroshima style. I always ask for the layer of noodles to be crispy! Since each one is made to order, you can choose meat, seafood, vegetarian, or a whatever combination strikes your fancy. It might take a bit longer to get your order, but the results are absolutely worth it! Prices run between $16.00 and $22.00, depending on your choices.

Daiso

Not a restaurant but definitely a Don’t Miss! Daiso is essentially a Japanese 99ȼ store. A great place for kitchen gadgets, snacks, stationery, and even socks for those of us with smaller feet. Due to the imported nature of their inventory, most things are $1.75, not 99ȼ, but it’s still an amazing deal!

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Author: Sheila Stone loves travel so much that she started her own tour company when she was 60. She personally creates and leads tours to various places in Europe, around the U.S. and – of course! – Japan. Check out her offerings at www.sheilastonetours.com. Sheila Stone Tours can be found on Facebook and Instagram. All photos by Sheila Stone.

Fall in Love with Japan Tour – Nov 6 – 20, 2022: for no more than 10 women. Everyone gets her own room at no extra charge. Personally led by Sheila Stone with local Japanese guides. Includes Western-style accommodation in onsen (spa) hotels, all ground transportation (including the Shinkansen – bullet train), all group admissions, and many unique experiences. We will wear kimono in Kyoto, have a cooking experience in Osaka, and meet both Japanese women and ex-pats living in Japan.
Onigiri – Rice Balls Recipe
Onigiri (rice balls) also called omusubi is Japan’s brilliant, versatile and endlessly creative answer to savory sandwiches. It is completely portable and you can take onigiri to school excursions, exams, picnics…well just about anywhere. For an added treat, you can grill the onigiri, wrap in nori (seaweed) if desired and serve hot. Typical shapes of rice balls are triangles, rounds or ovals. Oh yes, wrapping your onigiri in seaweed prevents sticky fingers, a real plus for a meal on the go!

There are many Onigiri specialty shops in Japan and if you go to any konbini (convenience store like Lawson’s, or 7-11), you will find a wide assortment to choose from. But, they are so easy to make, do try making it at home. They are quick to make as long as you have some cooked rice, and you can let your imagination for fillings run wild! Here are just a few popular combos to try.

The best accompaniment to onigiri to my mind if time permits is pickled vegetables (tsukemono) and a bowl of miso soup if you want a bigger meal. Onigiri can also be served instead of a bowl of white rice at any informal meal.

My dear friend, Naomi in Tokyo, put it this way: “Onigiri is soul food for Japanese people. It conveys Mother’s Love.”

What’s your favorite onigiri? It’s hard for me to pick just one…..But, I do make grilled Okaka (dried bonito flakes, toasted white sesame seeds, and soy sauce) a lot at home. The real issue is stopping eating them as they are so delicious! Consume your onigiri the day you make it and don’t refrigerate. That would make the rice hard and very untasty!
Onigiri (Rice Balls)

Lucy Seligman

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Course Side Dish
Cuisine Japanese

Servings 4

Ingredients

3 cups cooked & warm Japanese short-grain rice
Dried nori (seaweed) sheets as needed, lightly toasted, optional
Fillings: Choose one or do a variety: This recipe makes 8-10 rice balls.
2 to 3 small packets of dried bonito flakes, 3 to 4 tablespoons toasted white sesame seeds, and soy sauce to taste
Umeboshi (pickled plums), pitted
Salted grilled salmon, deboned & flaked, homemade or store bought

Instructions

If making the first filling called Okaka: Combine the warm rice and seasonings in a bowl. Mix lightly to blend, and adjust seasonings as desired. Moisten your hands with lightly salted water, or use an onigiri mold (usually made of plastic), also dipped into water, and shape into triangles. Press the rice into shape, but don’t mash or squash the onigiri. You can also use plastic wrap to shape the onigiri and to transport in the wrap until ready to eat.

If making any of the other fillings: Make a small hole in the center of the onigiri, and tuck in a little of one of the fillings (about 1-2 teaspoons). Continue shaping onigiri to cover the fillings. If desired, wrap the onigiri in the toasted seaweed, or cut the seaweed into the same shape as the onigiri, and place on top.

Notes
You can also mix in any kind of Furikake (flavored dry condiment such as Wakame Furikake, Shiso Furikake, etc) into the rice for an added layer of flavor.
Other popular variations include:
Tarako (salted cod roe), either raw or grilled, Mentaiko (roe made from Alaskan pollock/cod) for a spicy kick, tempura shrimp, tuna mayo (make sure you use Japanese mayo for added flavor), and on and on.

Keyword rice

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Unusual Edo Tastes: The use of Black Pepper and Garlic
Japan may have been cut off from the rest of civilization during the Edo period (1603-1867), they sure didn’t suffer when it came to food and had a surprisingly rich food culture. They had a vast and plentiful diet, that included many western imports. Over 300 cookbooks were written during the Edo Era. The following recipes, which are adaptations from Kyoikusha-shinsho’s fabulous Ryori no koten series, employ and highlight two fairly unusual ingredients for Japanese dishes of that era: black pepper and garlic.

Unusual Edo Tastes

There is an interesting story behind the black pepper. In 1609, a government official at the port of Hirado, southwest Japan, bought a large quantity of pepper from the Dutch. The Dutch were the only Westerners allowed to remain in the country after the Tokugawa government sealed Japan off from outside influence. Although pepper was a luxury item in those days, perhaps the official entertained the idea of promoting good ties or having a better import-export relationship with Holland. At any rate, this purchase might have been what led to the increasing availability and popularity of pepper during the Edo period.

These recipes originally caught my eye because I love all types of pepper and garlic!

I had some left-over black pepper rice, and fried it in a little oil the next day so that it was browned and crispy. Delicious! Whether you are on team rice cooker (my daughter), or team stove-top (me), this rice dish will come out perfectly either way.

BLACK PEPPER RICE

Serves 4-6
- 2 cups Japanese white rice, washed and drained
- ½ teaspoon fresh black peppercorns, coarsely cracked
- 2 tablespoons soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon sake (rice wine)
- 1 piece of konbu (kelp), 2 in by 2 in, wiped lightly with a damp cloth
Garnish:
- Shredded nori (seaweed)
Soak rice in water for up to 30 minutes before cooking. Rinse and drain. Mix the rice, black pepper, soy sauce, and sake in an electric rice cooker or large saucepan. Place the konbu on top and add enough water to cook the rice. Follow instructions if using an electric rice cooker, otherwise cook covered for 20 minutes or until the water is absorbed. Turn heat off. Let cooked rice rest for 10 minutes with cover on. Discard konbu. Serve in rice bowls, top generously with shredded nori, and eat immediately.

SHREDDED CHICKEN WITH JAPANESE RADISH

Serves 4-6
- 1 lb daikon (Japanese radish), peeled and cut into thick rounds
- ¾ lb boneless chicken breast with the skin, cut into chunks
- 3 tablespoons soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon sake
- Pinch of salt
- 1-½ tablespoons cornstarch
Garnishes:
- 1-2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced, or to taste
- ½ cup green onions, finely chopped
Place the cut daikon in a soup pot and lay the chicken on top. Cover with water. Bring to the boil, remove scum if necessary and cook, covered, for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat, take out the chicken, and discard the skin. Cool chicken briefly and shred it.

Add soy sauce to the soup pot and cook for a further 10-15 minutes with the lid off, or until softened. Take out the daikon and place in 4 or 6 serving bowls. To finish the sauce, turn heat down to low and add in the sake and salt. Combine the cornstarch with a little cold water to make a smooth paste and add to sauce to thicken it slightly, stirring until combined. Taste for seasoning and adjust if necessary.

Place the shredded chicken into the prepared sauce for a few minutes to reheat and then remove. Place the chicken on top of the daikon, pour a little sauce over it, and sprinkle with the garlic and green onions. Serve immediately.
Inarizushi – Sushi Rice in Pouches of Deep-fried Tofu
Auspicious foods are a classic feature of Japanese festivals. At Hinamatsuri, also known as Girls’ Day Festival, on March 3, tradition dictates fare such as shirozake (white sake), arare (cubed rice crackers), and inarizushi (sushi rice in pouches of deep-fried tofu).

The Fox’s Favorite – A POCKETFUL OF RICE

The word inari originally meant a farmers’ god, bringer of good harvests. His messenger was a fox, so the entrance to an inari shrine, often reached through a series of red torii gates, is guarded on both sides by stone foxes. Offerings at the shrine have traditionally included sake, mochi (rice cakes) and sekihan (red rice). And, from the end of the Edo period (1603-1867), abura-age (deep-fried tofu) began to also be left for the fox messengers. One suggestion is that foxes acquired a taste for oily foods because when hungry they used to sneak into shrines and lick the oil from lanterns for sustenance. Whatever the reason, it’s generally believed that abura-age is their favorite snack. So sushi made with abura-age came to be called “inari” sushi.

Inari Sushi – Inarizushi

Inarizushi first appeared during the early days of the Tempo era (1830-44), a period of great famine. According to one story, it was introduced in the Ryogoku-bashi area of Edo (Tokyo) by a sushi shop employee called Jirokichi. At night he ran his own food stall, where he sold inarizushi dirt-cheap. He could only sell it after dark, however, because the people of Edo were so snobbish that they didn’t want to be seen consuming such cheap eats. Nonetheless, by 1846 inarizushi had become popular enough even to have its own vending cry.

Now it is readily available throughout Japan, with regional differences in the shape. The fried tofu skins may be triangles, or squares, or even turned inside-out. Sometimes they are tied up into little pouches with a length of edible dried gourd. The name varies, too – in Osaka, for example, it is called kitsune-zushi (fox sushi) or simply kitsune.

It took me a long time to like Inarizushi and I finally figured out that it was because most of what you buy can be cloyingly sweet. Once I started to make my own, lessen the sugar, and added in more sesame seeds, I became a fan. One variation I have begun doing is adding slivers of peeled Japanese cucumber to the sushi rice mixture. I like the contrast of textures, and the added crunch from the cucumbers. Perfect picnic food!

Sushi rice in pouches of deep fried tofu
Inarizushi

Lucy Seligman

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Course Side Dish
Cuisine Japanese

Servings 4

Ingredients

2 cups Japanese short-grain white rice, washed and drained
3 tbsp sake
A 3-inch (7.5-cm.) square of dried konbu (kelp), wiped with a damp cloth and slashed to release favor
4 tbsp rice vinegar
3 tbsp white sugar (up to 4 tablespoons for a sweeter rice)
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp toasted white sesame seeds, or more to taste
6 sheets abura-age (fried tofu)
Seasoning stock:
1-1/2 cups dashi fish stock
3 tbsp soy sauce
3 tbsp white sugar
2 tbsp sake
1 tbsp mirin (sweet sake)
1/4 tsp salt

Instructions

Put the washed rice in an electric rice cooker or large saucepan, add the sake and slightly less water than usual (the aim is firm rice, not mushy), top with the kelp, and cook. Meanwhile, slowly heat the vinegar, sugar, and salt, stirring continuously, in another pan. When the sugar is dissolved, remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.
As soon as the rice is ready, spread it on a large platter and cool quickly using a paper fan. Discard the kelp. Drizzle the cooled vinegar mixture over the rice and mix lightly with a rice paddle – trying not to mash the rice. Sprinkle in the sesame seeds and mix lightly. Leave to cool, covered with a damp piece of cheesecloth, until ready to use.
Place the abura-age in a colander and pour boiling water over it to remove the oil, and soften the abura-age. Gently pat dry with paper towels and slice in half (across the middle, to preserve two pouch-like ends). Carefully open the pouches with your fingers, trying not to tear them.
In a medium-sized saucepan, heat all the ingredients for the seasoning stock. Add the abura-age and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down and simmer, semi-covered, for 20 minutes. Remove from heat, leaving the abura-age in the sauce to absorb the flavor until it cools to room temperature.
Drain the abura-age, discarding the stock. Wet your hands with water and scoop up some of the sushi rice into a small ball, shaping firmly to fit one of the pouches. Stuff the pouches and place on a serving plate, seam side down.

Notes
This recipe makes 3 pouches person. Best consumed the same day of preparation.
Variation: Add slivers of peeled Japanese cucumber to the sushi rice mixture.

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Oyster Riverbank Stew with Miso
Oyster Riverbank Stew – otherwise known as Kaki no Dote Nabe – is one of my favorite nabemono dishes. This stew uses both red and white miso as a powerful, pungent, decadent and seductive flavoring agent. The name riverbank probably refers to the bank of miso on the inside of the pot. There is an alternative story, though, that when this Hiroshima specialty was introduced into Edo (Tokyo) in the Edo period (1603-1867), it was brought by boat and sold on the banks of the river.

There are a wealth of nabemono (one-pot or hot-pot stews) in Japan, as they are considered a winter comfort food. I love nabemonos; so versatile and fun to make at the table with friends and family. It is the main style of communal cooking I do in the colder months here in the Bay area. Generally quick to prep and the combination of flavors and regional tastes are delicious and endless!

Oyster Riverbank Stew with Miso

In 1877, an American zoologist by the name of Edward Sylvester Morse (1838-1925) conducted the first scientific excavation of shell mounds of the Jomon and Incipient Jomon periods (9000-300 B.C.) in Omori, Tokyo. These ancient garbage dumps, which have since been found throughout Japan, were filled with the remains of a surprising diversity of foods: shells, fish bones, bones of game animals, acorns, and even rice.

What makes a successful nabe dish?

All the cooking is done at the dining table, so your ingredients can be prepped in advance and presented attractively on large decorative plates before cooking. Place on the table when ready to cook. Have your stock ready, seasoned and hot. Have a portable heating source so that your nabe can be cooked at the dining table. Have a heat-resistant pot (such as ceramic, cast-iron, or earthenware) ready for cooking your nabe. All cooking utensils, condiments, side dishes and drinks should also be on the table within easy reach of all your guests. Make sure while you and your guests are cooking, not to overcook any of the ingredients!

What’s your favorite nabe dish?

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Oyster Riverbank Stew with Miso

Lucy Seligman

Serves 4-5

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Course Main Course
Cuisine Japanese

Servings 4

Ingredients

1 ¼ lb. medium sized fresh oysters, washed in salted water, rinsed well, and drained
1 block grilled tofu, drained and cut into large cubes
7-8 oz. daikon radish, peeled and cut into 2 inch squares
7-8 oz. shungiku, (chrysanthemum leaves) and/or mitsuba (trefoil), washed, trimmed, and cut into 2 – inch lengths
7 oz. Japanese leeks, longer and less coarse than regular leeks, washed, trimmed, and cut diagonally into 2-inch lengths
Optional vegetables: enokidake or shiitake mushrooms, Chinese cabbage
½ cup red miso such as hatcho miso
2 tablespoons sweet white miso
3 tablespoons sake
3 tablespoons mirin, sweet sake
2 tablespoons white sugar
3 cups or more dashi, fish stock (make homemade or combine 1 teaspoon instant dashi granules to every 3 cups hot water)
4-5 very fresh raw eggs, optional, one per person for dipping sauce

Instructions

Prepare the oysters and all the vegetables, and arrange attractively on a large serving plate.
In a small bowl, combine the two misos, sake, mirin, and sugar to make a thick, spreadable paste. Adjust to suit your taste (white miso is sweeter and red miso is saltier).
Line the whole heat-resistant pot (ceramic, cast-iron, or earthenware) with a layer of miso paste and then press the daikon squares into the miso, using a rubber spatula to coat the daikon with the rest of the paste to hold the squares in place. To increase the flavor, place the nabe over a high heat and slightly scorch the miso mixture for a moment, until its pungent aroma can be smelt.
Bring the nabe to the dining table, place over a portable gas or electric ring, and turn the heat on high. Add a selection of ingredients and half the dashi stock. Bring to the boil, then turn heat down to a simmer. Give each guest an egg to beat and use as a dipping sauce if desired.
As you eat, scoop the miso into the stock. The oysters are done when they begin to curl around the edges-don’t overcook. Add more oysters, vegetables, tofu and stock as needed. If using, dip cooked ingredients into a beaten raw egg as your dipping sauce.

Notes
Provide plenty of drinks and rice for your guests, as the miso may make you thirsty, especially if not using raw egg as your dipping sauce.

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If you make this recipe and love it, please come back and give it a 5-star rating ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ It helps others find the recipe! ❤️ Above all, I love to hear from you. Then snap a photo and tag me on Instagram! I would love to see your creation.

Oden: Japanese Hodgepodge Stew

Chanko Nabe: A One-Pot Dish for a Pot Belly

Beef Sukiyaki Recipe
Japanese Fusion Pickled Veggies

Who doesn’t love a good pickled veggie topper?

There was an incredible burger joint just down the street from where I grew up in LA called Fusion Burger. This place had some of the best food I’ve ever eaten. Aside from the amazing burgers, the real winner and the dark horse, in my opinion, was their pickled veggie platter.

The first time I ate this, my eyes rolled into the back of my head and I had that Oh My God moment. You know the moment when you eat something incredible and your life changes?

It doesn’t happen often but when it does, you bet I savor every second of that moment.

Since that first bite, I’ve never looked at pickled veggies the same way ever again.

What made these pickled veggies special was the fact that they were made in-house. Every time I ordered them, they were a little bit different which made the experience that much more pleasurable. I never quite knew what flavor I was going to bite into.

I’m paying homage to that delicious pickle plate with my rendition of pickled veggies.

Japanese Fusion Pickled Veggies

Inspired by the flavors of Japan, these Japanese fusion pickled veggies are sweet, gingery, have a little bit of a kick (if you so choose). They also have that oh-so-good crunch and that acidic tang thanks to the rice wine vinegar and tamari.

Add your pickled vegetables to salads, tacos, fish, Buddha bowls, use your imagination. They are more versatile than you may think.

And the best part, this dish is easy to make and you probably already have most of the ingredients in your refrigerator.

Ingredients:

– 1/2 large cucumber or 1-2 small cucumbers, thinly sliced
– 4-5 radishes, thinly sliced
– 1 carrot, thinly sliced
– 1/3 red onion, thinly sliced
– 1 nub ginger, thinly sliced or finely grated
– 2 tsp peppercorns
– 1 tbsp tamari
– 1/2 cup rice wine vinegar
– 1 tbsp coconut aminos
– 1 tbsp coconut sugar or maple syrup
– 1-2 garlic cloves, smashed or thinly sliced
– 1 cup water
– 1/2 tsp salt (to taste)
– Optional: birds eye chili or jalapeño

Pickling the Veggies:

1. In a small saucepan, bring the water, tamari, coconut aminos, peppercorns, coconut sugar or maple syrup, rice wine vinegar, and salt to a soft boil–i.e. just as it starts to boil.
2. Let the mixture cool slightly.
3. While the pickling liquid is cooling, thinly slice the cucumber, radishes, red onion, and ginger using a peeler (with teeth), a mandolin, or a knife.
4. Smash your garlic cloves or thinly slice them.
5. In a glass jar, add all of your veggies, garlic, and ginger. Pour the pickling liquid over the veggies until the jar is completely filled with liquid.
6. Let sit for at least 20 minutes in the fridge. The longer they sit, the more flavorful it becomes.

About the author: Pip Harragin is a food lover and one of her biggest passions in life is feeding and teaching people about food. Her two main goals when it comes to food are first, nourishing the body with food. This form of self-care is something that she instills in her clients. Second, she wants to help change the misconceptions that surround vegan and plant-based food. Her goal is to show people that these foods can be just as delicious and fun to eat as any other diet out there. She can be found on Facebook and Instagram.
Nishime: Old Traditions for the New Year
Nishime is a must when it comes to welcoming the new year! In fact, when it comes to tradition-bound festive holidays in Japan, nothing beats New Year’s, also known as Osechi – a time of family gatherings, gossip, and lots of good food and sake. As such, making nishime is always a part of my Osechi tradition.

Osechi, a multi-dish banquet served in layered boxes known as jubako, begins in the morning on January 1 and can last for many hours.

Osechi is made in the last days of the passing year in order to give housewives a much-needed break. It largely comprises preserved foods unlikely to spoil quickly that are served cold. And while it is possible nowadays to food shop at department stores from January second on, the concept of taking a break from your usual routine during the New Year’s holidays remain embedded into the Japanese culture.

Nishime Recipe

Nishime, also called umani, is a very popular customary dish. This dish owes its name to the verb nishimeru, meaning to boil down. In this case it refers to a variety of vegetables simmered in a rich, sweetened, soy-based sauce.

Serving Nishime

Nishime is served cold, as many New Year’s dishes are. Depending on the region, the name and style or presentation can differ. In one version, the vegetables are chopped into small pieces and eaten from a bowl with a spoon.

Within each region, how sweet or salty the vegetables are depends on ofukuro-no-aji (the flavor of mother’s home cooking). In the old days, when sugar was a precious commodity, special-occasion fare such as nishime tended to be extremely sweet. These days it is perfectly fine to adjust it to your own preference.

Osechi Dishes

Other typical Osechi recipes besides nishime include kuri kinton (sweetened chestnuts and mashed sweet potato), kazunoko (herring roe), and tazukuri/tatsukuri (small, boiled and sweetened sardines) just to name a few.

What’s on your menu for Japanese New Year’s celebrations?

Pondering what I will cook and enjoy with my daughter is a highlight of my December holiday planning. Not to mention the fun of shopping, cooking and spending time together, and getting special treats to enjoy as well!

Wishing everyone Akemashite Omedetoo Gozaimasu (あけましておめでとうございます)!
Nishime

Lucy Seligman

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Course Side Dish
Cuisine Japanese

Servings 4 as a side dish

Ingredients

3-1/4 cups water, plus a little more if needed
3 by 3 inch (8-cm by 8-cm) piece of konbu kelp, wiped with a damp cloth and lightly slashed to replace the flavor
1-1 ½ oz. (30-45g) katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes)
2-1/2 tbsp regular-strength soy sauce, or to taste
2 tbsp white sugar
1 tbsp sake
2 tbsp mirin (sweet sake)
1 tsp salt, or to taste
7 oz (200g) lotus root (renkon), peeled and cut into thick half-moon slices*
3-1/2 oz (100g) gobo (burdock root), peeled and cut diagonally into thin slices*
3 oz (85g) carrots, peeled and cut into thick half-moon slices
4 dried or fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed (reconstitute dried ones by soaking in warm water with a dash of sugar for 30 minutes)
1 block (about 7 oz. or 200g) konnyaku (devil’s-tongue jelly), parboiled, cut in half lengthwise, and sliced thickly
1-3/4 oz (50g) snow peas, trimmed and sliced in half diagonally
5-1/4 oz (150g) sato-imo (taro), peeled, halved, rubbed with salt to get rid of sliminess, and washed

Instructions

Heat the 3 ¼ cups water with the kelp in a deep saucepan. Just before it boils, remove the kelp and pour in the dried bonito flakes. Boil, stirring, for about three minutes, then strain into a clean deep saucepan. Add the soy sauce, sugar, sake, mirin, and salt.
Bring this sauce to a low boil and add the drained lotus root and gobo, and the carrots. Cover and cook over medium-low heat for about 12 minutes or until the vegetables can be easily pierced with a toothpick. Take out and set aside to cool. Add the shiitake mushrooms to the sauce, cook for 12 minutes, then remove. Next cook the konnyaku for 10 minutes; take out. If the sauce has reduced too much, add a little more water. Simmer the snow peas for just 2 minutes, and remove. Finally, cook the drained sato-imo for about 12 minutes (or to your preference), turning once; test softness with a toothpick.
To serve, place the vegetables in separate decorative mounds on a serving plate or bowl. Garnish with snow peas and serve at room temperature as a side dish.

Notes
*Keep in cold water until ready to use to prevent discoloration.

If you are serving other dishes as part of your Osechi celebration, this dish will serve up to 6 persons as a side dish.

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My Favorite Osechi Recipes
As the New Year approaches, I like to prepare classic Osechi recipes to mark the transition and bring good luck. The choices of food, colors and even the names of the dishes are all very intentional with Osechi. Plus preparing food ahead of time means a relaxing start to the New Year. It’s honestly my favorite time of year!

My Favorite Osechi Recipes

It’s hard to narrow in on my favorite Osechi recipes, but I’ve decided on four that I just had to share. They’re easy-to-prepare and delicious enough to serve all year long!

Kohaku Namasu: New Year’s salad

This dish is perfect for Osechi and aesthetically has a significant cultural impact in Japan. The red and white together are seen as symbols of happiness and celebration. This salad combines crisp, white daikon radish and crunchy carrot, cut into matchsticks. The vegetables are tossed gently with a dressing of vinegar, sugar, mirin, and soy. It’s refreshing, delicious, and the colors are gorgeous.

A New Year’s Salad: Kohaku Namasu Recipe

Toshikoshi Soba

Soba noodles have a special meaning in Japanese culture, as they’re usually eaten as a “happiness” food. While soba can be eaten at any time, it’s particularly popular on special occasions. Toshikoshi soba is intended to be the last food that touches your lips on New Year’s Eve – you can’t get much more “special occasion” than that!

This soup is made with buckwheat soba noodles, thin-sliced chicken, earthy shiitakes, and vibrant Japanese leeks. It’s a healthy, hearty way to send off the old year and ring in the new one.

Soba Celebrations for a Happy New Year!

Matsumae Zoni Soup

Traditionally all the dishes that make up Osechi are precooked and put into special boxes called jubako ahead of time. Instead of rice, mochi, or pounded rice cakes, are eaten. I love mochi, and it takes center stage in this delicious Osechi soup. Zoni is one of the only dishes served hot at an Osechi meal, which helps it stand out, as does the color of the fresh salmon and roe. Pops of color please the eye and the umami from the dashi and shitake mushroom are utterly satisfying. Zoni is one of my favorite Osechi dishes, and this Matsumae variety is probably my favorite overall.

Matsumae Zoni Soup

Kyoto-Style Zoni

A lot of Osechi foods center around mochi, including this one. I love the taste and texture, and they’re delightful in this dish as well.

Zoni is worth mentioning twice, as it’s filled with comforting flavors and bright colors. This Kyoto-style zoni uses white miso paste to add some sweetness. You can customize garnishes endlessly with bonito flakes, fresh greens, and so on at serving.

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Kuri Kinton

One of the most popular dishes in the New Year period is a sweet potato puree with sweetened chestnuts called Kuri Kinton. Chestnuts are a celebrated product of many regions of Japan, but perhaps the most delicious ones come from Tamba in Hyogo Prefecture. There is also a magnificent sweet, made of slightly sweetened mashed chestnut formed into chestnut shapes, that is a specialty of Nakatsugawa in Gifu Prefecture.
Kuri Kinton

Lucy Seligman

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Course Side Dish
Cuisine Japanese

Servings 6

Ingredients

2 lbs Japanese sweet potatoes (satsumaimo), peeled and sliced into ½-inch rounds
3/4 cup white sugar, or to taste
1/3 tsp salt
1 tbsp mirin (sweet sake)
1 jar/can sweetened chestnuts in heavy syrup (use at least 6, cut in half or left whole if small)
2 tbsp heavy syrup from the chestnuts, or replace with 1 tablespoon honey and 1 tablespoon water
Garnish: optional
Whole sweetened chestnuts, drained of heavy syrup

Instructions

Soak the sliced sweet potatoes in water for at least 30 minutes, changing the water once or twice. Drain. This will release excess starch.
Boil the sweet potatoes in a medium-sized saucepan, uncovered, for approximately 15 minutes or until tender. Check for doneness. Can you easily pierce it with a bamboo skewer? Drain. Mash the sweet potato, using either a pestle and mortar or a potato masher. For a very smooth texture, you can also use a food processor or a wooden spatula and fine meshed strainer to mash the sweet potatoes.
Return the mashed sweet potato to a clean saucepan, and add in the sugar, salt, mirin, and syrup. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring and mashing and stirring continually with a wide wooden spoon or long-handled paddle – be careful, as the mixture gets very hot. When it starts to thicken, add in the drained chestnuts. Cook on medium-high heat for approximately 5 minutes, stirring, to combine the mixture thoroughly; it should be thick enough to adhere to the wooden spoon and not fall off, so cook longer if necessary.
Serve at room temperature, either in a large bowl or in small individual servings during your Osechi feast. If you have any left-over chestnuts, place a few whole on top as garnish.

Notes
This makes a lot of Kuri Kinton! So, if you are expecting a smaller crowd, cut the recipe in half.

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Nishime for Osechi

Nishime is a must when it comes to welcoming the new year! In fact, when it comes to tradition-bound festive holidays in Japan, nothing beats New Year’s, also known as Osechi – a time of family gatherings, gossip, and lots of good food and sake. As such, making nishime is always a part of my Osechi tradition.
Nishime

Lucy Seligman

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Course Side Dish
Cuisine Japanese

Servings 4 as a side dish

Ingredients

3-1/4 cups water, plus a little more if needed
3 by 3 inch (8-cm by 8-cm) piece of konbu kelp, wiped with a damp cloth and lightly slashed to replace the flavor
1-1 ½ oz. (30-45g) katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes)
2-1/2 tbsp regular-strength soy sauce, or to taste
2 tbsp white sugar
1 tbsp sake
2 tbsp mirin (sweet sake)
1 tsp salt, or to taste
7 oz (200g) lotus root (renkon), peeled and cut into thick half-moon slices*
3-1/2 oz (100g) gobo (burdock root), peeled and cut diagonally into thin slices*
3 oz (85g) carrots, peeled and cut into thick half-moon slices
4 dried or fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed (reconstitute dried ones by soaking in warm water with a dash of sugar for 30 minutes)
1 block (about 7 oz. or 200g) konnyaku (devil’s-tongue jelly), parboiled, cut in half lengthwise, and sliced thickly
1-3/4 oz (50g) snow peas, trimmed and sliced in half diagonally
5-1/4 oz (150g) sato-imo (taro), peeled, halved, rubbed with salt to get rid of sliminess, and washed

Instructions

Heat the 3 ¼ cups water with the kelp in a deep saucepan. Just before it boils, remove the kelp and pour in the dried bonito flakes. Boil, stirring, for about three minutes, then strain into a clean deep saucepan. Add the soy sauce, sugar, sake, mirin, and salt.
Bring this sauce to a low boil and add the drained lotus root and gobo, and the carrots. Cover and cook over medium-low heat for about 12 minutes or until the vegetables can be easily pierced with a toothpick. Take out and set aside to cool. Add the shiitake mushrooms to the sauce, cook for 12 minutes, then remove. Next cook the konnyaku for 10 minutes; take out. If the sauce has reduced too much, add a little more water. Simmer the snow peas for just 2 minutes, and remove. Finally, cook the drained sato-imo for about 12 minutes (or to your preference), turning once; test softness with a toothpick.
To serve, place the vegetables in separate decorative mounds on a serving plate or bowl. Garnish with snow peas and serve at room temperature as a side dish.

Notes
*Keep in cold water until ready to use to prevent discoloration.

If you are serving other dishes as part of your Osechi celebration, this dish will serve up to 6 persons as a side dish.

Tried this recipe?Let us know how it was!
I hope you’ll try these traditional Osechi recipes this year. They’re a beautiful way to recognize how far you’ve come in the old year and focus on health, growth, and prosperity in the coming days. Plus, they’re all healthy and delicious, though you might get tired of mochi by the end of it!

Let me know how you like them, and if you have your own Osechi traditions! Happy New Year!
Japanese Winter Comfort Foods

When it comes to winter comfort foods, one-pot dishes, soups and stews are a given – especially in the Japanese culture. Winter is the perfect time to cozy up, enjoy the snowfall, and make some of your favorite Japanese winter comfort food recipes.

Japanese Winter Comfort Foods

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Chanko Nabe is a traditional hot pot dish of stock, vegetables, and meat or seafood cooked together in a single pot. It can, in fact, be just about any form of nabe (one-pot) cooking, but traditionally it is chicken-based. The dish is a classic Japanese comfort food, and is a traditional staple. It’s also a favorite of a sumo wrestler diet!

Kanto-Style Oden

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My version of Kanto-style Oden is slightly unorthodox, as it includes a relatively small amount of processed fish paste products. Nevertheless, Oden is the quintessential Japanese dish for when winter arrives. Oden is another one-pot dish of various savory goodies simmered together. It has been sold at mobile street food stands, also called yatai, since the Edo period. For some Westerners, the flavor of oden can be somewhat of an acquired taste, but once you get used to it, you are likely to find yourself craving this Japanese comfort food the next time the weather turns cold.

Uosuki

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Sukiyaki is a delicious winter dish often cooked in a nabe or cast iron pot. Uosuki is a form of fish sukiyaki, a famous regional dish from the Osaka area that originated on fishing boats in the Inland Sea. Fresh catch was quickly cut up and added to a nabe of simmering stock that was sweet and salty (amakara); the stock was said to hide the fishy smell.

Chawan-Mushi: Savory Custard

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It’s hard to categorize chawan-mushi: it can be classified as a custard, a soup, or both. The hardest part of making chawan-mushi is the cooking time as it will take practice to get it right. It’s not only a matter of steaming until the custard sets, but the steaming time also depends on the type of container used and the amount of bubbles in your custard.

Chestnut Rice

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Kurigohan (chestnut rice) is another seasonal treat, a beloved favorite during the colder months, and one of my favorites. There are two rice dishes, in fact, that typify the start of colder weather in Japan. One is made using matsutake mushrooms, often called “the truffle of the East”. The other, of course, is chestnut rice, which uses inexpensive ingredients and can be enjoyed and savored almost everywhere.

Jibuni

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Jibuni is a special regional recipe of poultry and vegetable stew eaten not only as a seasonal daily dish in Kanazawa but also served on many special occasions. Jibuni is actually one of my favorite Japanese winter comfort dishes!

Salmon and Vegetable Tonjiru Soup

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Salmon and vegetable Tonjiru soup is a classic hearty umami-flavored miso-based soul-satisfying soup, usually made of pork in the winter. Ton is defined as pork, and jiru meaning soup. Be sure to read over a basic miso soup recipe and then enjoy!

Tori no Hizikuri

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Tori no Hikizuri is a definite comfort food and is usually cooked right at the dining table! I love to serve this when entertaining. Everyone gets a kick out of it being cooked in front of them! It is also an easy recipe, which is always a bonus.

In Japan, winter comfort foods are a given as food and seasons go hand in hand. After a particularly cold winter day, nothing beats a dinner of delicious Japanese winter foods. Whether you’re new to Japanese cooking or looking to add recipes to your repertoire, these are sure to be some new family favorites!
Jibuni: Kanazawa-style simmered duck stew
Kanazawa boasts a special regional cuisine called Kaga no aji. In general the taste is mildly sweet, like most Japanese country cooking. Visually, it is not as sophisticated or ornate as Kyoto’s kaiseki haute cuisine, since it’s based on the food of the samurai – substantial and hearty, with taste, not looks, being paramount.

Jibuni is one tasty example, a special regional recipe of duck (or chicken) and vegetable stew eaten not only as a seasonal daily dish in Kanazawa but also served on many special occasions. We don’t know the precise origins of jibu, but ni means “to simmer.” Some people say that jibu jibu is the sound the stew makes while cooking. Others believe that the stew was invented by a samurai named Jibu. Since it is one of the few dishes that uses flour as a thickener, many suspect that it has Portuguese origins from the early days of the Edo period (1603-1867).

Jibuni: Kanazawa-style Duck Stew Recipe

Jibuni is one of my favorite Japanese winter comfort dishes, but please don’t limit yourself to consuming it only during that time of year. Based on the season, there are many variations around. It’s fun to play with the basic recipe, replacing ingredients according to your tastes or what’s available at the market. For example, you can try fresh spinach; dried, reconstituted shiitake mushrooms or other Japanese mushrooms; Japanese parsley (seri); or Japanese leeks (negi).

My variation of jibuni is based on a recipe from Tsubajin, one of Kanazawa’s oldest (two hundred seventy years plus) and most famous restaurants.

The ancient castle town of Kanazawa, located on the Japan Sea side of Honshu in Ishikawa Prefecture, was ruled peacefully for over three centuries by one of the country’s richest daimyo families, the Maedas. It retains a rich cultural heritage and old-world charm, and also remains one of the true gourmet meccas of Japan.

Other Delicacies from Kanazawa

Many of Kanazawa’s delicacies, such as gori (singing bird fish), come from the Saigawa and the Asanogawa – two large rivers running through the center of town.

The Omicho Market, which is at least two hundred and fifty years old and is often referred to as “Kanazawa’s Kitchen”, continues to be one of the most notable food markets in Japan. The market is filled with more than two hundred open stalls selling a variety of fresh seafood and local produce, including game and a small, sweet coldwater shrimp called ama-ebi.

And since Kanazawa produces nearly all of Japan’s gold leaf, it shouldn’t be surprising that a local custom involves drinking green tea, coffee, or sake with edible gold leaf floating on the surface. It remains one of my favorite towns to revisit over and over.

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Jibuni: Kanazawa-style simmered duck stew

Lucy Seligman

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Servings 4

Ingredients

6 cups dashi fish stock
8 tbsp soy sauce
9-10 tbsp mirin (sweet sake)
4 slices bamboo shoot, 2 inches by 1 inch
4 fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed
8 snow peas, trimmed
4 4 Kanazawa-style sudarebu (fresh wheat gluten – may be replaced by broiled tofu or dried wheat gluten) cut into 1-inch squares
4 slices boned & skinless duck breast*, 2 inches by 1 inch each,
All-purpose white flour as needed
Garnish
Freshly grated wasabi horseradish

Instructions

Heat the dashi stock and season it with the soy sauce and mirin. Boil the vegetables until crisp but tender. Turn down the heat to a high simmer and add in the sudarebu or tofu. Add in the duck (or chicken), which should be generously coated in the flour, at the last moment. This flour coating creates a thicker dashi broth and is a key element to the success and tastiness of this dish. It will take less than three minutes to cook each ingredient.

To serve, pile the vegetables and duck (or chicken) separately in small mounds in a shallow bowl, pour a little of the remaining sauce over them, and place a dab of wasabi in the center. Serve immediately.

Notes
Notes:
If you’re using tofu, first press some of the water out by putting it between two plates for 10 minutes. Drain.
You may replaced the duck with boneless, skinless chicken breast.

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