Author: Lucy Seligman

Omuraisu (Rice Omelette)
One great way to instill smart, healthful lifetime eating habits in your kids is to have them planning menus, preparing dishes, and cleaning up right alongside you. By doing so, you can expose youthful palates to a wide variety of foods, teach kids to ascertain the freshness of ingredients, show them the right way to use utensils and other cooking equipment, and get them to read recipes, follow directions, and pick up some elementary math. And it really doesn’t end with young kids, as I am now helping my college-aged daughter to expand her culinary repertoire from afar.

Omuraisu (Rice Omelette) Recipe

In any case, kids’ innate curiosity and creativity are definitely worth harnessing in the kitchen. In Japan and the US, the trend is evidenced by a whole spate of cookbooks, cooking classes, and television cooking shows aimed at children. Boys as well as girls will quickly find that cooperative cooking can be an easy and enjoyable daily activity involving the whole family, including dads. And best of all, very few children would refuse to sample at least a few bites of something they had a hand in cooking! Their creativity really comes out in how they decorate the top of the omelette using ketchup: hearts, the peace sign and smiley faces are all popular favorites. This recipe is derived from Yoshoku: the Japanese interpretation of Western dishes, which originated during the Meiji Era (1868-1912.)

Omuraisu (rice omelette), an all-time favorite of Japanese children (and most of their parents, for that matter), is a perfect dish to start with in this quest. It’s surprisingly easy to make – the most exotic seasoning you will need is ketchup. It is also an easy, great and tasty way to use up cooked Japanese rice!
Omuraisu (Rice Omelette)

Lucy Seligman

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Course Breakfast
Cuisine Japanese

Servings 4

Ingredients

Vegetable oil as needed

Butter as needed
3/4 cup white onion, peeled & minced
2/3 cup boneless ham*, finely chopped
7-8 tbsp Ketchup, or to taste
2 cups Japanese white rice, day-old firm, cooked & warmed up
4 tbsp dry white wine (optional)
salt and pepper to taste
8 eggs
Garnish:
additional ketchup
parsley sprigs

Instructions

To make the filling, first heat a small amount of oil in a 10-inch frying pan. Drain off oil and
reserve. Melt two tablespoons of butter in the same pan. Sauté the onions and
ham over medium heat until the onions are transparent. Add ketchup and mix
well. Add the rice and wine (if desired) and stir well until combined. Season to
taste with salt and pepper. Transfer the rice mixture to a bowl and cover with
plastic wrap to keep it warm.

To prepare the omelette, first break two eggs in a bowl and stir lightly. Season to taste with
salt and pepper. Prepare the same pan by heating the oil reserved previously in
it and then pouring off any excess. Add one-half tablespoon of butter and heat it
until it sizzles. Add the eggs and make a very soft, light-colored omelette.

While the eggs are still soft, place a quarter of the rice mixture in the center, cover with a
plate and turn over. Place a paper towel over the omelette and use it to shape
the omelette into a long oval, tucking in the edges neatly. Garnish the center
with ketchup and parsley. Make the other three omelettes in the same manner.
Serve hot.

Notes
*You can replace the ham with small pieces of skinless and boneless chicken breast (sautéed with salt and pepper or herb salt).

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Black Sesame Pudding
When my college-aged daughter was home this past summer, we explored a lot of Japanese places in the Bay Area. One hot day, we dropped by Uji Time Dessert in Berkeley, CA. I love their motto: “Our goal is simple – Think of us when you crave Japanese fusion style desserts.”

They offer a wide variety of sweets and Matcha drinks on their menu, and of course, as usual, I ordered Matcha soft serve ice cream. My daughter was way more adventurous and ordered Black Sesame soft serve ice cream.

I was allowed one taste and it was AMAZING! This burst of earthy flavor exploded in my mouth. I never realized the complexity and depth of flavor that black sesames have. Needless to say, it changed my blog focus for the summer and led me down the windy road of developing today’s recipe. It took me four tries testing and tweaking it before I felt it was a winner and worthy of posting, and getting my daughter’s approval! Not easy, believe me!

Black sesame seems to be everywhere these days and for a very good reason. I was at a Shake Shack in Brooklyn and they were even selling a black sesame milkshake with frozen custard, which was quite delicious.

You may ask how did I go from soft serve to a recipe for Black Sesame Pudding?!

Well, my daughter also introduced me to a very quirky YouTube show called Cooking with Dog, about a Japanese dog named Francis who narrates this cooking show (in English no less) as a Japanese female cook prepares the recipes. I know, sounds ridiculous, right? But it’s very cute and an informative cooking show, and we love dogs! We watched them make Black Sesame Pudding, and that is what sparked this recipe for me. The smooth texture is very similar to Panna Cotta, another favorite dessert of mine. This is an easy and luscious recipe, and the hardest part is waiting for it to cool and set in the refrigerator before eating!

Surprisingly, finding Japanese black sesame paste wasn’t easy. In the end, I found it on Amazon, as all the local stores were either always sold out or very pricey. My friend, Naomi, in Tokyo, told me it is pricey there too. But, I can assure you it is worth it!
Black Sesame Pudding

Lucy Seligman

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Course Dessert
Cuisine Japanese

Servings 4

Ingredients

4 tbsp black sesame paste
300 ml whole milk
1 packet plain gelatin
2 tbsp white sugar
100 ml heavy cream
Garnishes
sweetened whipped cream (I added in a little confectioner's sugar)
toasted black sesame seeds

Instructions

Place gelatin in a small bowl and add in a tablespoon or two of cold water. Stir to mix. Set aside for a few minutes.
Heat the milk in a small saucepan and add in the sugar. Once the sugar has dissolved, then add in the gelatin. Whisk until it dissolves. Take off the heat.
Pour the mixture into a deep bowl and add in the black sesame paste. Whisk to combine. Place this bowl carefully into a larger bowl filled with ice water. Continue whisking to help it cool down quickly. Then whisk in the heavy cream. Once cooled, pour into small glass bowls or other decorative glassware. Place in the refrigerator for at least an hour or more until the pudding has firmed up completely.
Garnish with sweetened whipped cream and toasted black sesame seeds.

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A Review of Kokoro Care Packages

I was thrilled when I heard about Kokoro Care Packages, who offers monthly and or seasonal Japanese care packages. I love that more companies are introducing Japanese foods and other products here in the U.S., and to other countries outside of Japan. So, I reached out to them and introduced them to Thanks for the Meal’s blog.

Kokoro Care Package Review

Here is what Kokoro says about their products:

“Every month and season, we curate unique care packages filled with premium-quality, all-natural Japanese food and deliver them straight from Japan to your home. Each item is carefully selected for its quality, purity, ease of use and of course, taste!”

In exchange for this review, I received the August Nourishing Essentials Care Package mailed directly from Japan. It was filled with seasonal summer foods and I invited my friend Nancy to come over for a taste test a few weeks ago on a very hot and sultry day.

Kokoro Care Package Recipes

First, I used the Izumo Soba and made Hiyashi Chuka. I used baby shrimp, simmered and sliced shiitake mushrooms, sliced Japanese cucumber, and tomato slices as our toppings. Sprinkled toasted sesame seeds over the top. These noodles were a big hit. Generous 2 person portion was included and we both loved the sprightly lemon soy sauce.

Izumo Soba

Hiyashi Chuka made with the Izumo Soba

Mixed Seaweed Salad

Next was the Mixed Seaweed Salad. I love seaweed salads, so was looking forward to tasting this mix which has five different seaweeds from Hokkaido. After soaking in water and rinsing, I added thinly sliced Japanese cucumbers, and mixed in Ponzu sauce and toasted sesame seeds. Another hit!

Japanese Summer Tonic

Japanese Summer Tonic using Yamanashi’s 5-year Aged Red Wine Vinegar

I’m a big fan of Japanese inspired cocktails, but even non-alcoholic drinks are a hit around my house! Because of the heat on our taste testing day, I made a summer tonic using Yamanashi’s 5 year Aged Red Wine Vinegar, sparkling water, and a touch of honey. Be sure to melt the honey before mixing in, otherwise you end up with a clump of it at the bottom of the drink which doesn’t dissolve.

We both loved this tangy, thirst-quenching and refreshing drink so much, that I made it again this week during the heat wave that the Bay area has been experiencing. It was wonderful!

Cooking with Furikake

I served freshly cooked Japanese white rice and we topped it with a sprinkling of Unagi Sansho Furikake. Of course Unagi (eel) is a summer favorite and I love it.

Nancy had never had Furikake, and we both really enjoyed this slightly sweet mixture with different textures, which included various seasonings such as sansho pepper and ginger along with unagi bits.

There were a few items that weren’t luminary, at least to us: The Blueberry Amazake, the Sweet Corn Rice Porridge, and the Ayu Furikake. We found them overall not as interesting or as tasty as the other products. But I have no doubt that Kokoro Cares, a company less than one year old will continue to improve and expand their offerings in terms of tastes and variety.

Would I try Kokoro’s Care Packages again? Absolutely. I am especially interested in The Seasonal Delights Care Package, which includes 7+ healthy and delicious Japanese foods. It also comes with a special artisanal gift made locally in Japan and is shipped once every three months to coincide with the four seasons.

Kokoro Care Package Discount

If you’re interested in trying a Kokoro care package, take advantage of a special offer! Use discount code THANKSFORTHEMEAL_10 and you’ll get 10% off your first order through the end of September. Order your care package today and be sure to comment below about which product you’re most excited to check out!

Description from the August 2019 Kokoro Care Package

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Tebasaki: Nagoya-style Fried Chicken Wings
This recipe is a favorite in beer gardens and beer halls in Nagoya, where I happily lived for a number of years.

Beer halls and beer gardens are popular summer retreats in japan. Just like overseas drinkers, the Japanese enjoy a variety of highly addictive and tasty snacks that inevitably inspired thirst for another draught. One typical favorite is tebasaki – flavored fried chicken wings.

But first, a bit about beer. As far as we know, beer was introduced to Japan during the mid-Edo era (1603-1867) by Dutch merchants. The Dutch were allowed to land at Dejima island near Nagasaki during the long period of Japan’s national isolation, and among their wares was lager beer. The first Japanese to actually make beer for personal consumption was Dr. Komin Kawamoto, who acted as an interpreter for the Tokugawa military government in 1853 and was served beer while on Commodore Perry’s ship. Dr. Kawamoto became so enthusiastic about this new beverage that he obtained the recipe from Commodore Perry himself and then went home and started brewing. The first non-Japanese brewery was started in 1870 by an American named William Copeland, who built the Spring Valley Brewery in Yokohama to satisfy the thirsts of an increasing number of foreigners who converged on Japan after it opened its doors to the rest of world. We also have Copeland to thank for the first beer hall in Japan, situated right next to his brewery. Although these beers were not produced on a large scale, they were popular enough to be called maho mizu (magic water) by the Japanese.

In 1872, the first Japanese brewery opened in Osaka and began producing Shibuya beer. In March 1875, the first advertisement about beer appeared in Tokyo Nichi Shimbun (now the Mainichi Shimbun). It was a simple newspaper ad, but since beer was somewhat unknown, it caused a big commotion. Kiyobe Nakagawa, often called the father of beer, started what would later become Sapporo Beer in Sapporo the following year. By the mid-Meiji era (1868-1912) there more than 100 breweries scattered around Japan, including Kirin, which also had its origin in Yokohama.

Beer gardens first opened in 1896. Asahi Beer, based in Osaka, put up a tent and served a draft brew called Sakura Beer. In 1899, Ebisu Beer Hall was opened in Tokyo by Nihon Beer Corporation. Beer was sold by the glass with Western snacks such as sandwiches. After this, many popular beer halls opened in the city. Shimbashi Beer Hall, for example, catered to people waiting for trains and to foreigners. It was a large, typically noisy place. On opening day, it sold 225 liters of beer-due in no small part to the American navy men who had heard of it.

For the sake of recipe testing, I won’t mention how many chicken wings and mini-drumsticks were consumed, along with various bottles of Japanese beer……..in pursuit of the perfect recipe!
Tebasaki: Nagoya-style Fried Chicken Wings

Lucy Seligman

4 from 1 vote

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Course Appetizer
Cuisine Japanese

Servings 4

Ingredients

8-12 chicken wings or mini-drum sticks
vegetable oil for frying
1/2+ cup unagi-tare sauce, a thick, sweet, soy-based sauce often used for grilled eel
ground white pepper to taste
sansho pepper to taste
Garnish:
shredded cabbage

Instructions

Deep-fry the wings and or drumsticks in the oil until golden brown and fully cooked. Drain briefly.
Generously brush both sides of the chicken with the unagi sauce and dust generously all over with both of the peppers.
Place the chicken against a mound of cabbage and serve immediately.

Notes
There are endless seasoning variations to try and taste, and that’s part of the fun. Everyone has their own favorite. Remember to balance out a sweet base with a spicy topping as my recipe does.
Here are some other flavor ideas to try:
Make your own favorite soy-based marinade for the chicken: Some ingredients to add in could be minced garlic, wasabi, mustard, curry powder, sesame oil, paprika, white sesame seeds, vinegar, and so on.
Sprinkle cooked chicken with white sesame seeds, shichimi togarashi (7 taste pepper including red pepper), or coarsely cracked black pepper.

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If you like this, check out other regional Japanese recipes >>

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Rafutei: Okinawa’s Slow-Simmered Pork
I was lucky enough to visit Okinawa once and loved it! Here is one of my favorite recipes from there.

Modern Okinawa cuisine is based on dishes enjoyed by the rulers of the Ryukyu dynasty, which controlled Okinawa from 1372 to 1879, and traditional island homecooking.

Originally, royal Ryukyuan cuisine was served only during special events and ceremonial occasions. It was gorgeous fare, richly laid out in the style of a Chinese banquet, and dramatically presented on exotic black and red lacquerware. When the dynasty eventually collapsed, and Okinawa became a prefecture of Japan, most of this sumptuous formal cuisine disappeared with it. But some dishes were adapted to fit the budgets and tastes of ordinary folk. The passage of time has made it difficult to find the culinary seam between royal and traditional cooking.

Okinawa’s proximity to China and the Ryukyu’s dynasty’s close ties with the Middle Kingdom are reflected in Okinawa’s overwhelming preference for pork – it’s estimated that there are over 150 pork dishes in Ryukyuan cooking. Other similarities include an abundance of dishes stir-fried in the Chinese fashion, the often heavy-handed use of oil and salt, and the pungent presence of plenty of garlic. Because of its hot, humid climate, many of Okinawa’s dishes are also preserved, using such techniques as slow boiling and braising in sweetened soy sauce. One of these is rafutei, which is also one of Okinawa’s most popular pork dishes. Rafutei’s origins are uncertain, but written records give the original name for the dish as rafutai-ni, so it is likely that it came from China.

Rafutei can be cooked in either a soy or miso-based sauce. My recipe is soy-based. The important thing is that the meat is boiled for a long time, the aim of which is to create a meltingly tender mixture of meat and fat, but without the fattiness. In Nagasaki, they make a similar pork dish called kaku-ni. Kaku-ni is also braised in sweetened soy sauce, but it is cooked for an even longer period than rafutei, resulting in even greater tenderness.

If you like this, check out the other regional Japanese recipes >>>
Rafutei

Lucy Seligman

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Course Main Course
Cuisine Japanese

Servings 6

Ingredients

2-1/4-2-1/2 lbs boneless pork belly, ideally with three layers each of meat and fat
1-1/4 cups Awamori, an Okinawan liquor distilled from rice, or good quality sake
1-1/4 cups dashi fish stock
1/3 cup white sugar
1/3 cup Japanese soy sauce
1 small knob of fresh ginger, peeled and thickly sliced, optional
Garnish:
Bok choy, spinach, choc (sometimes also called choy) sum or fresh nigauri* (bitter melon/bitter gourd)

Instructions

Place the port in a deep, thick-bottomed soup pot, fill the pot three-quarters full with water, and bring to a boil. Cover, and continue boiling over medium heat for one hour, occassionally skimming off any scum. (If too much water boils off and the pork is not completely covered, add more boiling water.) Remove pork from heat, and cool down enough to cut into 1-1/2 inch chunks.
Prepare the seasoning stock by combining all ingredients and putting them in the cleaned soup pot. Bring the mixture to a boil, add the pork, and simmer for two and a half hours, turning the pork chunks over about once every 30 minutes. Halve the bok choy and boil briefly.
Lay the bok choy (or other green garnish) in a serving dish. Place the pork chunks next to it and drizzle the remaining sauce over. Serve hot or at room tempurature.
*If fresh nigauri is available, by all means use it! It can replace the bok choy and or other greens. To prepare nigauri, scrape the skin, slice thinly, remove the seeds, and blanch to
remove the bitterness. It can also be lightly stir-fried.

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Katsuo no Tataki: Seared Bonito Sashimi with Garlic
Katsuo (Bonito) is a seasonal Japanese delicacy of early summer. The most popular way to eat it is as katsuo no tataki (“pounded bonito sashimi”), a traditional dish from Kochi Prefecture on Shikoku Island. (Part of Thanks for the Meal’s regional Japanese recipe collection.)

This is a unique type of sashimi, the only kind to be eaten with garlic or seared before eating. In the past the bonito was pounded to soften the flesh, but nowadays condiments are rubbed into it and it is left to marinate so that it softens and absorbs their flavor. It is a perfect dish to make when the weather is hot and sultry, and when you don’t want to spend too much time in the kitchen.

The origins of the dish are lost in the mists of time. One Edo-era (1603-1867) story holds that a European merchant tried to make smoked katsuo no tataki. According to another story, also of the Edo era, a European priest, homesick for beefsteak and garlic, used bonito as the closest red meat substitute.

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Whatever the origins of the recipe, during the Edo era katsuo was so cherished that the Edokko – the people of Edo – used to say that in order to be able to afford hatsu-gatsuo, the first bonito of the season, they would willingly pawn their wives. Bonito first became popular with the samurai, since the word “katsuo” can also mean “winning man,” but it later spread to the common people.

There are many ways to enjoy bonito in Japan, but perhaps the most traditional, besides katsuo no tataki, is as dried shavings. Known as katsuobushi, these are a basic ingredient in Japanese fish stock, dashi.

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Katsuo no Tataki: Seared Bonito Sashimi with Garlic

Lucy Seligman

5 from 1 vote

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Course Main Course
Cuisine Japanese

Servings 4

Ingredients

1 lb fresh bonito fillets with skin intact*, may replace with yellowtail or tuna
Salt
Large bowl of ice water
Homemade or bottled Ponzu dipping sauce, a vinegary mixture of soy sauce and sudachi or yuzu, types of Japanese citron
Condiments**:
5 tbsps or more minced or chopped garlic
5 tbsps or more minced scallion
3 tbsps or more grated fresh ginger
1/2 cup fresh shiso (perilla) leaves, cut into slivers
Garnishes (optional)
Whole shiso leaves
Kaiware (radish sprouts)
Edible flowers

Instructions

Combine the condiments in a small bowl and set aside.
If using unseared bonito: Cut away any very dark parts of the bonito. Wash and pat dry. Spread out the fish and insert skewers–long metal ones are easiest to remove–parallel or fanning out to support the whole fillet. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Omit this step if you have bought seared bonito.
Quickly sear both sides of the fillets evenly over a very high heat. The outside of the bonito should turn white; the inside should look like rare steak. Omit this step if you have bought seared bonito.
Remove from the heat and plunge immediately into ice water. Gently remove the skewers by twisting them. Pat dry. Place the fillets on a cutting board, skin side up, and cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices.
Decorate a serving platter with the bonito slices, overlapping them in rows. Add a thick layer of the condiment mixture, patting down firmly, and drizzle liberally with ponzu sauce. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours.
Just before serving, remove from the refrigerator and take off the plastic wrap. Garnish if desired. Serve additional ponzu sauce in individual bowls, adding extra condiments if you like.

Notes
*I was able to buy already seared bonito at my local Japanese market here in the Bay area. It made for a faster preparation for this dish.
**If desired, make additional condiment mixture to mix into ponzu sauce at the table while dining.

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Recommended Shojin Ryori Restaurants in Japan

When it comes to sampling authentic Shojin Ryori, there are dozens of options throughout Japan. When it comes to sampling the best of the best, though, there are seven restaurants that you absolutely must check out.

Must Visit Shojin Ryori Restaurants in Japan

Shigetsu (Tenryuji, Arashiyama, Kyoto)

This was my very first experience with shojin ryori in Japan. I now visit every time I am in Kyoto as the food is consistently excellent. And strolling around Tenryuji’s immaculate gardens is a wonderful way to end your meal.

There are three courses to choose from: Yuki (rice, soup, and five side dishes, ¥3,300 yen), Tsuki (rice, soup, and six side dishes, ¥5,500), and Hana (rice, soup, and seven side dishes, ¥8,000).

500-yen garden admission fee also required.

Advance reservations can be made online (in English) on the Tenryuji website.

Hachinoki (Kita-Kamakura, Kanagawa)

Hachinoki offers up gorgeously presented shojin ryori from an elegant dining room overlooking a small garden with fountains and lush foliage. Seasonal vegetables, tofu, and wheat gluten are artfully arranged into dishes that incorporate the five colors, flavors, and preparation techniques of shojin ryori. The several vegetarian menus range from katsura (3300 yen) to larger, more elaborate presentations such as ume (11000 yen). The building next door (Shinkan) offers up beautifully-plated kaiseki starting from 4600 yen. Advance reservations are required.

Hours: 11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.(L.O.) / 5 p.m.- 7 p.m.(L.O.) Dinner (Must be reserved by previous day)

Closed on Wednesdays

Access: Across from Tokeiji Temple (about a five-minute walk from JR Kita-Kamakura Station)

Bon Fucha Ryori (Taito, Tokyo)

Fucha ryori is a distinct departure from Soto and Rinzai Zen shojin ryori. Introduced by the Obaku school of Zen at Manpukuji in Uji in the 17^th century, fucha ryori is much closer to its Chinese roots. Traditionally served communal-style, diners help themselves from large plates placed in the center of the table.

Bon has been in business for decades. Each party is seated in a gorgeous private dining room inside the highly atmospheric restaurant. Dinner from 6,000 yen; lunch boxes available on weekdays for 3,450 yen. Advance reservations required: Phone 03-3872-0375 (reservation time: 10:00-21:00)

Kakusho (Takayama, Gifu)

Housed in a 250-year-old residence near Takayama’s temple district, Kakusho has been in the same family for 12 generations. I was shown to a private pavilion set in a stunning Japanese garden and served the meal of a lifetime; the 10-course shojin dinner is a marvel of artistry and the freshest ingredients, set on beautiful tableware.

Daigo

It’s important to note two of Tokyo’s most expensive shojin ryori restaurants (Michelin-starred Daigo and Shojin Sougo) both use fish / dashi and eggs in their shojin kaiseki; if you wish to have a completely vegan meal, you must reserve in advance. Visit Daigo’s website here.

Itosho (Azabujuban, Tokyo)

Opened by Hiroharu Ito, a 25-year veteran at Kakusho in Hida Takayama, Itosho embraces many of the same dishes as Kakusho. This includes the phenomenal shojin age (vegetable and tofu coated in tiny bits of mochi flour then fried). Dipped into a tiny pile of seasoned salt, the texture and flavors are profound. Stunning food, beautiful tableware, including Takayama lacquerware, and outstanding service have earned Itosho a well-deserved Michelin star. It’s available for both lunch and dinner.

Sougo

Sougo can make strict vegetarian cuisine (Bonito flakes, eggs and dairy products free) if you make a reservation 2 days prior to lunch, 1 day prior to dinner. What’s also great is there are two completely vegan shojin courses, Zen for ￥12,000 and Sai for ￥10,000, with limited availability.

Cooking Schools in Tokyo

There are several cooking schools in the Tokyo and Kamakura areas where you can learn to cook shojin ryori in English. There’s not reason to not give this healthy and nourishing traditional vegan cuisine a try!

Shojin Ryori classes in English

Akasaka Teran (Jokokuji, Tokyo): https://akasaka-teran.net/en/index_en.html

Chagohan Tokyo (Asakusa / Kappabashi): https://www.chagohan.tokyo/booking/shojin-ryori-buddhist-cuisine

Tokyo Cook (Inside Restaurant Shojin Sougo, Roppongi): https://www.tokyo-cook.com/

Atelier Café Kamakura (Kamakura): https://www.meetup.com/Atelier-Cafe-Meetup-Kamakura/

Author Bio

Sarah B. Hodge (www.bundtlust.com) is a food and travel writer for several publications in Japan including Tokyo Weekender and Stars and Stripes Japan. She has studied shojin ryori since 2011 with several teachers including Masami Asao, Kakuho Aoe, Daisuke Nomura, and Mari Fujii.

All photo’s courtesy of Sarah B. Hodge.

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Shojin Ryori: The Spirit of the Japanese Zen Kitchen
What is Shojin Ryori?

Photo by Sarah B. Hodge

Despite the image of Japan as a land of seafood, wagyu beef and other carnivorous delights, there is a longstanding tradition of vegetarian temple food known as Shojin Ryori. Dating back to the 13th century, this beautiful and healthful cuisine is deeply rooted in Zen philosophy and nourishes the mind as well as the body.

Introduced to Japan in the 13th century by Dogen Zenji (founder of Soto Zen), Shojin Ryori is a deceptively simple yet sophisticated vegan cuisine still served at Buddhist temples today.

Dogen outlined the principles of shojin ryori in his Tenzo Kyōkun (典座教訓), Instructions for the Cook, which is still the manual that guides meal preparation at monasteries and temples around Japan. The word “shojin” is made up of the characters for “spirit” and “to progress” and is often translated as “devotion food” in English.

Dogen taught that there are three minds: magnanimous mind (daishin), joyful mind (kishin) and nurturing mind (roshin). When preparing meals, the tenzo (chef) should embrace all three minds and every step of meal preparation should be done with total attention and mindfulness.

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Balance and seasonality are of utmost importance in the Zen kitchen.

Presentation is simple, with no ostentatious garnishes or “unorthodox” ingredients (including imported fruits and vegetables). Tableware depends on settings; in Soto Zen monasteries, monks eat from a special set of nesting bowls called oryoki. In shojin ryori restaurants and on special occasions, meals are served in lacquered bowls on raised lacquered trays.

Shojin ryori is based on the “rule of five”: five elements (godai), five colors (green, yellow, red, black, and white), five flavors (sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami), and five cooking methods (raw, stewed, boiled, roasted, and steamed). In addition to seasonal herbs and vegetables, shojin ryori uses many forms of tofu and wheat gluten.

Meals are carefully prepared according to these principles. Cooking itself becomes an act of meditation and mindfulness, and those being served eat with a deep appreciation for the land, the ingredients, and the farmers and producers that were involved at each step of the process. The Japanese phrase “itadakimasu” recited before meals actually comes from Gokan-no-ge (the Five Reflections), which Buddhists recite before meals:
1. Engage with the food. Consider how nature’s miracles and people’s hard work have culminated in the creation of the food you are about to enjoy.
2. Reflect upon your day and yourself. Contemplate whether your actions make you worthy of the meal in front of you.
3. Observe whether your own spirit is pure like the food.
4. Chew slowly and enjoy every bite. Good food is medicine. It is a way of rejuvenating and purifying your fatigued body.
5. Be thankful for all, and eat with gratitude.
Some tips to making Gomadofu (Sesame tofu):

Photo by Sarah B. Hodge

One of the most recognizable dishes of shojin ryori is gomadofu, sesame tofu. Despite having “tofu” in the name, the dish does not contain soy and is made from only three ingredients: sesame paste, kuzu starch, and water. You can use white, golden or black toasted sesame seeds for this dish.

To make authentic gomadofu, you will need serious arm power and stamina as hand-grinding the sesame seeds in a suribachi (mortar) with a surikogi (pestle made from prickly ash wood) takes anywhere between 30 to 40 minutes. Store-bought white or black sesame seed paste (or even tahini) can also be used, but I prefer to make gomadofu the way it has been made for centuries.

Author Bio

Sarah B. Hodge (www.bundtlust.com) is a food and travel writer for several publications in Japan including Tokyo Weekender and Stars and Stripes Japan. She has studied shojin ryori since 2011 with several teachers including Masami Asao, Kakuho Aoe, Daisuke Nomura, and Mari Fujii.

Recipes may include affiliate links, so without costing you anything extra, I’ll earn a small percentage of the sales if you purchase these items through these links. Thank you for supporting Thanks for the Meal!
GOMADOFU (ごま豆腐) | SESAME TOFU

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Servings 4

Ingredients

70 grams toasted sesame seeds (white, golden, or black), or sesame paste/tahini
50 grams kuzu starch, grind down into super-fine powder before adding as it is less likely to result in lumps.

400 ml filtered water
Condiments
Grated ginger, wasabi and soy sauce to taste

Instructions

If using a Suribachi:
Add the sesame seeds all at once and continue to grind until you have a smooth paste AND the seeds have released their oils (it usually takes between 30-40 minutes). Slowly add filtered water little by little and mix well.
If using jarred Sesame Paste or Tahini:
Add along with the filtered water and mix well.
Continue with Recipe:
Pour the sesame seed water through a strainer into a medium-sized pot or saucepan (if using a traditional Japanese strainer, take care not to press down on the mesh as it breaks easily). Once all the water / sesame seed paste has been added to the pot, slowly pour in the kuzu starch and incorporate with a whisk (do this step off the heat).
Using a medium flame, whisk the sesame seed mixture frequently. It will continue to thicken. Bring to a boil and stir vigorously, for about 20 minutes; the mixture will change in both texture and color and become more translucent (especially if using white sesame) and will look like a thick pudding.
Pour the sesame tofu into a square or decorative mold that has been dampened with water or sprayed with nonstick cooking spray (I have made gomadofu with metal, silicone, and plastic molds and all three will work).
Bang on a flat surface to remove trapped air bubbles and smooth the top (don’t worry if there are wrinkles; this will be at the bottom once you unmold).
Let cool to room temperature (this can be done more quickly by placing the mold (in a larger pan and surrounding with ice water) then store in the refrigerator.
Unmold onto a cutting board and slice using a knife dipped in hot water between each cut (if using decorative silicone or plastic molds, simply unmold directly onto your serving dish).
Garnish with grated ginger, wasabi, and a drizzle of soy sauce and enjoy!

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Opening Moments: Japanese-Style Hors D’oeuvres
Walk into a Japanese bar and, inevitably, you’ll be served a tasty little morsel to tide you over until your drink is served. Known by a variety of names—o-tsumami, o-toshi, sake no sakana—these appetizing hors d’oeuvres are derived from the first course of kaiseki (Japan’s haute cuisine), known as hassun. They take the form of small, taster-sized servings in attractive ceramic bowls or plates, and are a delight to behold and consume.

Dedicated drinkers, the cognoscenti of o-tsumami, are sometimes known as hidari kiki (left-handed) or sato (“party of the left”). These terms owe their origin to a Chinese classic on manners, Li Chi. According to this volume, said to be the origin of Japanese ideas on table settings, soy sauce and food should be served on the right side of a diner, and all liquor on the left. Thus the left hand is used to hold a glass, and to prefer the left came to mean to enjoy drinking.

Half the fun of food, for both guest and cook, is the pleasurable anticipation—what ingredients will be used, and how will they be prepared? When creating o-tsumami you can really let your creativity run wild. Just about any food can be used, as long as it is pleasing to look at and delicious. It should encourage the appetite and the thirst, so the flavors and seasonings are usually bold.

Here are some guidelines for popular and easily made o-tsumami combinations. These dishes can be prepared in advance and served cold or at room temperature, or thrown together quickly as your guests arrive, using whatever you have on hand. Increasingly o-tsumami are often a curious blend of multicultural cooking; a combination of East-West flavors is neither unusual nor looked down upon. Try some of these variations at your next party.

Fried Wonton Salad:
- Cut uncooked wonton skins into triangles and fry them until golden-brown.
- Drain on paper towels.
- Thinly slice two Japanese (or European or hothouse) cucumbers and sprinkle them lightly with salt. Let sit until you are ready to use. Rinse lightly prior to adding to dish.
- Peel and shred some fresh ginger and mix with the cucumber.
- Make a dressing from 1 cup rice vinegar, 3 tablespoons white sugar, 1 tablespoon light-colored soy sauce, and ½ teaspoon salt.
- Combine the wonton skins, vegetables and dressing as needed to make a salad.
Steamed Clams in Sake:
- Saute small fresh clams in the in sesame oil for a minute or two.
- Pour good quality sake (or dry white wine) over them, cover, and steam over high heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until the shells have opened up and the clams are cooked. You may also add a splash of soy sauce, and salt and pepper to taste if desired.
- Discard any unopened shells.
- Serve hot or at room temperature, topped with minced green onions and or shredded fresh ginger.
Kaiware Radish Sprouts or Watercress Rolled in Ham:
- Blend 1 tablespoon butter with ¼ teaspoon prepared wasabi horseradish until creamy.
- Take four slices of boneless ham (cooked or raw, such as Italian prosciutto) and spread evenly with the butter mixture.
- Place some kaiware sprouts or watercress in the center and roll up the ham slices.
Grilled Japanese Mushrooms:
- Lightly salt (for best results, use sea or kosher salt) shiitake, shimeji, or other fresh mushrooms, and grill until done. Alternatively, brush lightly with soy sauce instead of salt. You can also try grated fresh ginger over soy sauce-flavored mushrooms for another layer of flavor.
- Serve with lemon wedges.
Green Asparagus Kimpira:
- Trim 12 stalks of asparagus, slice diagonally, and stir-fry in neutral-flavored vegetable oil.
- Make a sauce with 2 tablespoons each of soy sauce and sake, pour it over the asparagus, and cook until the asparagus is crunchy. Seeded, dried red chili pepper may be added if desired, but remove it after cooking.
- As a garnish, sprinkle the cooked asparagus with toasted white sesame seeds.
Japanese-style Roast Beef:
- Quickly sear boneless beef (such as rump roast or a top or bottom round roast), cut it into thin slices, and serve with a pungent dipping sauce of soy sauce, minced garlic, and scallions.
- Garnish with shredded fresh shiso (perilla) leaves and kaiware radish sprouts.
My recipes may include affiliate links, so without costing you anything extra, I’ll earn a small percentage of the sales if you purchase these items through these links. Thank you for supporting Thanks for the Meal!

Leave a note in the comments section and let me know if you made any of these recipes and how it turned out!

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Eating Japanese Food While Maintaining Ketosis

Following a ketogenic diet is a great way to lose weight, but can you eat Japanese food on keto? The answer may surprise you, but YES! Eating keto, otherwise known as a low-carb-high-fat diet, is beneficial for a number of reasons, but a big part of it is eating in such a way that allows you to still enjoy many of your favorite foods.

Anyone who loves sushi knows that you’re only ever one artfully made tuna roll away from a better mood, and the same can be said for good Japanese food in general. While you might think that a sushi restaurant isn’t the most ideal place to eat when you’re counting carbs…prepare to be pleasantly surprised. Japanese cuisine, while it has a few carby pitfalls, is full of dishes that focus on simply prepared fish and vegetables designed to let the food speak for itself.

If you’re not already familiar with Japanese food culture, then you will almost certainly have some questions about the various fruits, vegetables, sauces, and preparations that you will be experiencing and that’s fine. The goal here is to familiarize yourself somewhat so you can make better informed food choices that are not only delicious, but also allow you to sample some of the best techniques that Japanese cooking offers. Of course all of this was written keeping in mind that you want to maintain ketosis while eating delicious food and not stressing about the type of restaurant that you’re at; Japanese food is more than just sushi, after all!

The Wonderful World of Osechi: Japanese New Year’s Recipes

New Year’s is one of the best times in Japan, at least for eating and relaxing. Get Lucy’s Osechi cookbook, full of recipes that are fast to make, easy, and quite delicious for your New Year celebrations (along with the history and traditions and little tidbits Lucy always includes). Get the book!

Makes a great gift too! Did you know on the Amazon page there’s an option to give it as a gift?

Keto Japanese Food

Japanese Keto Appetizers

While tenpura is a mainstay in Japanese restaurants in the US, there’s are plenty of non-fried starters you can enjoy instead.

Miso soup is a thin, broth-based soup made with fermented soybean paste. It has a very unique flavor, with a high degree of umami while still being light and refreshing. Often it’s simply populated with cubes of tofu and some vegetables like cabbage. This is a delicious and often cheap start to a meal that’s keto-friendly. It’s worth noting too that if you’re avoiding soy but don’t have a good reason to (like allergies) other than word-of-mouth that it’s somehow bad for you, then stop avoiding it. Soy is healthy and a good source of protein, and it’s reasonably low in carbs.

Oshinko vegetables are essentially pickles and often includes daikon, lotus root, seaweed, and burdock. Daikon is a type of radish, burdock is similar to artichoke, lotus root is its own thing altogether, but delicious and still low carb friendly.

Edamame isn’t super low carb, but again most people avoid it because of some odd aversion to soy. In small amounts, edamame fresh from the lightly salted pod is a delicious way to whet your appetite.

Grilled vegetables are another way to enjoy an appetizer in a new way without overloading on sugar or carbs.

While you can’t enjoy the many splendors of sushi in all its forms, you can still enjoy the flavors and freshness by eating sashimi. Sashimi is essentially the same cuts of fish your sushi chef has available for rolls or maki, served with the same familiar additions as sushi – pickled ginger, wasabi, soy sauce – just without the rice. The best part of sashimi is the fact that because you don’t have the nori or rice to cover up imperfections, you will likely get the best cuts they have available.

Depending on where you are, most Japanese restaurants specialize in both sushi and hibachi. Hibachi grills are incredible both for the delicious food cooked right in front of you, but also because of the beautiful knifework and performance art that goes into the cooking. Dazzling displays of cutting, flipping, and searing are the visual appetizers to a main course of grilled meat or fish and Japanese vegetables. Just ask for your chef to hold the rice and you can stay keto friendly very easily at a hibachi.

Even if you don’t have a hibachi at your restaurant of choice, you can still likely get whatever meat they have offered in other dishes grilled simply to your liking and it never hurts to ask.

Shabu-Shabu is an interesting course that consists of very thin slices of beef and vegetables that are served with a very hot bowl of broth that you actually cook yourself at the table. Because of how hot the broth is and how thinly the food is cut, it takes just a minute or less to cook perfectly. I’ve got to be honest – it’s also really fun!

Negamaki is a delicious alternative to other sugary dishes, being that it’s simply grilled beef wrapped around green onions or sometimes asparagus, served with soy sauce. While I’ve had it both as an appetizer and as a meal, I think you could get it as either.

Things to avoid

Of course like any restaurant there will be a number of things that won’t work well with your keto lifestyle, the most obvious of these being rice and noodles. There are some other things to avoid though, and it might require you to speak with your server or chef to determine what might be lurking in the dishes you have your eye on.

Tenpura, though lightly fried and crispy, it still a flour batter and so should be avoided. Even a small piece of tenpura vegetable can have upwards of 8g of carbs and that’s just not doable on a keto diet.

Most sauces that go beyond simply soy sauce – like teriyaki for instance – are going to be sugar or corn- syrup based and absolutely not compliant with a keto meal.

As sad as it makes me, seaweed salad is often quite sugary, despite being delicious. You can typically get a small green salad with Japanese dressing on the side so any added sugar is negligible, or again just opt for grilled or pickled vegetables to be safe.

Potstickers, called gyoza, are delicious but of course are made with a type of flour that is filled with carbs. Best to avoid them.

I remember avoiding going out to eat with my friends when I first started keto if they were going to a place where I simply couldn’t imagine eating low carb. Outside of a pizzeria or pasta house, however, you can adapt almost any cuisine to a low carb lifestyle, Japanese included.

Meshiagare!

Author Bio

Tony is a HealthyWage winner father of two who enjoys finding ways to turn his favorite carby foods into keto recipes (like his infamous air fryer steak bites and keto chicken tenders!) Be sure to check him out on Pinterest!

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