Category: Shojin Ryori

Recommended Shojin Ryori Restaurants in Japan

When it comes to sampling authentic Shojin Ryori, there are dozens of options throughout Japan. When it comes to sampling the best of the best, though, there are seven restaurants that you absolutely must check out.

Must Visit Shojin Ryori Restaurants in Japan

Shigetsu (Tenryuji, Arashiyama, Kyoto)

This was my very first experience with shojin ryori in Japan. I now visit every time I am in Kyoto as the food is consistently excellent. And strolling around Tenryuji’s immaculate gardens is a wonderful way to end your meal.

There are three courses to choose from: Yuki (rice, soup, and five side dishes, ¥3,300 yen), Tsuki (rice, soup, and six side dishes, ¥5,500), and Hana (rice, soup, and seven side dishes, ¥8,000).

500-yen garden admission fee also required.

Advance reservations can be made online (in English) on the Tenryuji website.

Hachinoki (Kita-Kamakura, Kanagawa)

Hachinoki offers up gorgeously presented shojin ryori from an elegant dining room overlooking a small garden with fountains and lush foliage. Seasonal vegetables, tofu, and wheat gluten are artfully arranged into dishes that incorporate the five colors, flavors, and preparation techniques of shojin ryori. The several vegetarian menus range from katsura (3300 yen) to larger, more elaborate presentations such as ume (11000 yen). The building next door (Shinkan) offers up beautifully-plated kaiseki starting from 4600 yen. Advance reservations are required.

Hours: 11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.(L.O.) / 5 p.m.- 7 p.m.(L.O.) Dinner (Must be reserved by previous day)

Closed on Wednesdays

Access: Across from Tokeiji Temple (about a five-minute walk from JR Kita-Kamakura Station)

Bon Fucha Ryori (Taito, Tokyo)

Fucha ryori is a distinct departure from Soto and Rinzai Zen shojin ryori. Introduced by the Obaku school of Zen at Manpukuji in Uji in the 17^th century, fucha ryori is much closer to its Chinese roots. Traditionally served communal-style, diners help themselves from large plates placed in the center of the table.

Bon has been in business for decades. Each party is seated in a gorgeous private dining room inside the highly atmospheric restaurant. Dinner from 6,000 yen; lunch boxes available on weekdays for 3,450 yen. Advance reservations required: Phone 03-3872-0375 (reservation time: 10:00-21:00)

Kakusho (Takayama, Gifu)

Housed in a 250-year-old residence near Takayama’s temple district, Kakusho has been in the same family for 12 generations. I was shown to a private pavilion set in a stunning Japanese garden and served the meal of a lifetime; the 10-course shojin dinner is a marvel of artistry and the freshest ingredients, set on beautiful tableware.

Daigo

It’s important to note two of Tokyo’s most expensive shojin ryori restaurants (Michelin-starred Daigo and Shojin Sougo) both use fish / dashi and eggs in their shojin kaiseki; if you wish to have a completely vegan meal, you must reserve in advance. Visit Daigo’s website here.

Itosho (Azabujuban, Tokyo)

Opened by Hiroharu Ito, a 25-year veteran at Kakusho in Hida Takayama, Itosho embraces many of the same dishes as Kakusho. This includes the phenomenal shojin age (vegetable and tofu coated in tiny bits of mochi flour then fried). Dipped into a tiny pile of seasoned salt, the texture and flavors are profound. Stunning food, beautiful tableware, including Takayama lacquerware, and outstanding service have earned Itosho a well-deserved Michelin star. It’s available for both lunch and dinner.

Sougo

Sougo can make strict vegetarian cuisine (Bonito flakes, eggs and dairy products free) if you make a reservation 2 days prior to lunch, 1 day prior to dinner. What’s also great is there are two completely vegan shojin courses, Zen for ￥12,000 and Sai for ￥10,000, with limited availability.

Cooking Schools in Tokyo

There are several cooking schools in the Tokyo and Kamakura areas where you can learn to cook shojin ryori in English. There’s not reason to not give this healthy and nourishing traditional vegan cuisine a try!

Shojin Ryori classes in English

Akasaka Teran (Jokokuji, Tokyo): https://akasaka-teran.net/en/index_en.html

Chagohan Tokyo (Asakusa / Kappabashi): https://www.chagohan.tokyo/booking/shojin-ryori-buddhist-cuisine

Tokyo Cook (Inside Restaurant Shojin Sougo, Roppongi): https://www.tokyo-cook.com/

Atelier Café Kamakura (Kamakura): https://www.meetup.com/Atelier-Cafe-Meetup-Kamakura/

Author Bio

Sarah B. Hodge (www.bundtlust.com) is a food and travel writer for several publications in Japan including Tokyo Weekender and Stars and Stripes Japan. She has studied shojin ryori since 2011 with several teachers including Masami Asao, Kakuho Aoe, Daisuke Nomura, and Mari Fujii.

All photo’s courtesy of Sarah B. Hodge.

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Shojin Ryori: The Spirit of the Japanese Zen Kitchen
What is Shojin Ryori?

Photo by Sarah B. Hodge

Despite the image of Japan as a land of seafood, wagyu beef and other carnivorous delights, there is a longstanding tradition of vegetarian temple food known as Shojin Ryori. Dating back to the 13th century, this beautiful and healthful cuisine is deeply rooted in Zen philosophy and nourishes the mind as well as the body.

Introduced to Japan in the 13th century by Dogen Zenji (founder of Soto Zen), Shojin Ryori is a deceptively simple yet sophisticated vegan cuisine still served at Buddhist temples today.

Dogen outlined the principles of shojin ryori in his Tenzo Kyōkun (典座教訓), Instructions for the Cook, which is still the manual that guides meal preparation at monasteries and temples around Japan. The word “shojin” is made up of the characters for “spirit” and “to progress” and is often translated as “devotion food” in English.

Dogen taught that there are three minds: magnanimous mind (daishin), joyful mind (kishin) and nurturing mind (roshin). When preparing meals, the tenzo (chef) should embrace all three minds and every step of meal preparation should be done with total attention and mindfulness.

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Balance and seasonality are of utmost importance in the Zen kitchen.

Presentation is simple, with no ostentatious garnishes or “unorthodox” ingredients (including imported fruits and vegetables). Tableware depends on settings; in Soto Zen monasteries, monks eat from a special set of nesting bowls called oryoki. In shojin ryori restaurants and on special occasions, meals are served in lacquered bowls on raised lacquered trays.

Shojin ryori is based on the “rule of five”: five elements (godai), five colors (green, yellow, red, black, and white), five flavors (sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami), and five cooking methods (raw, stewed, boiled, roasted, and steamed). In addition to seasonal herbs and vegetables, shojin ryori uses many forms of tofu and wheat gluten.

Meals are carefully prepared according to these principles. Cooking itself becomes an act of meditation and mindfulness, and those being served eat with a deep appreciation for the land, the ingredients, and the farmers and producers that were involved at each step of the process. The Japanese phrase “itadakimasu” recited before meals actually comes from Gokan-no-ge (the Five Reflections), which Buddhists recite before meals:
1. Engage with the food. Consider how nature’s miracles and people’s hard work have culminated in the creation of the food you are about to enjoy.
2. Reflect upon your day and yourself. Contemplate whether your actions make you worthy of the meal in front of you.
3. Observe whether your own spirit is pure like the food.
4. Chew slowly and enjoy every bite. Good food is medicine. It is a way of rejuvenating and purifying your fatigued body.
5. Be thankful for all, and eat with gratitude.
Some tips to making Gomadofu (Sesame tofu):

Photo by Sarah B. Hodge

One of the most recognizable dishes of shojin ryori is gomadofu, sesame tofu. Despite having “tofu” in the name, the dish does not contain soy and is made from only three ingredients: sesame paste, kuzu starch, and water. You can use white, golden or black toasted sesame seeds for this dish.

To make authentic gomadofu, you will need serious arm power and stamina as hand-grinding the sesame seeds in a suribachi (mortar) with a surikogi (pestle made from prickly ash wood) takes anywhere between 30 to 40 minutes. Store-bought white or black sesame seed paste (or even tahini) can also be used, but I prefer to make gomadofu the way it has been made for centuries.

Author Bio

Sarah B. Hodge (www.bundtlust.com) is a food and travel writer for several publications in Japan including Tokyo Weekender and Stars and Stripes Japan. She has studied shojin ryori since 2011 with several teachers including Masami Asao, Kakuho Aoe, Daisuke Nomura, and Mari Fujii.

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GOMADOFU (ごま豆腐) | SESAME TOFU

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Servings 4

Ingredients

70 grams toasted sesame seeds (white, golden, or black), or sesame paste/tahini
50 grams kuzu starch, grind down into super-fine powder before adding as it is less likely to result in lumps.

400 ml filtered water
Condiments
Grated ginger, wasabi and soy sauce to taste

Instructions

If using a Suribachi:
Add the sesame seeds all at once and continue to grind until you have a smooth paste AND the seeds have released their oils (it usually takes between 30-40 minutes). Slowly add filtered water little by little and mix well.
If using jarred Sesame Paste or Tahini:
Add along with the filtered water and mix well.
Continue with Recipe:
Pour the sesame seed water through a strainer into a medium-sized pot or saucepan (if using a traditional Japanese strainer, take care not to press down on the mesh as it breaks easily). Once all the water / sesame seed paste has been added to the pot, slowly pour in the kuzu starch and incorporate with a whisk (do this step off the heat).
Using a medium flame, whisk the sesame seed mixture frequently. It will continue to thicken. Bring to a boil and stir vigorously, for about 20 minutes; the mixture will change in both texture and color and become more translucent (especially if using white sesame) and will look like a thick pudding.
Pour the sesame tofu into a square or decorative mold that has been dampened with water or sprayed with nonstick cooking spray (I have made gomadofu with metal, silicone, and plastic molds and all three will work).
Bang on a flat surface to remove trapped air bubbles and smooth the top (don’t worry if there are wrinkles; this will be at the bottom once you unmold).
Let cool to room temperature (this can be done more quickly by placing the mold (in a larger pan and surrounding with ice water) then store in the refrigerator.
Unmold onto a cutting board and slice using a knife dipped in hot water between each cut (if using decorative silicone or plastic molds, simply unmold directly onto your serving dish).
Garnish with grated ginger, wasabi, and a drizzle of soy sauce and enjoy!

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Bamboo Shoots: A Kyoto Spring Specialty
Bamboo shoots are often seen as a seasonal treat so it’s worth having recipes on hand to know what you’re going to make should you come into fresh shoots. (Don’t forget to check out my other equally popular bamboo shoots recipe too Bamboo Shoot, Chicken and Fried Tofu Mixed Rice Japanese Recipe.)

Boiled Bamboo Shoots Recipe

“Kye no kidaore Osaka no kuidaore.” If we’re to believe this old adage, the people of Kyoto go bankrupt because of their love of fine clothes, while Osakans spend all their money on food. The saying also implies in passing that Kyoto’s cuisine is less than spectacular – an assessment that clashes with all my dining experiences in the city.

Kyoto, after all, was the capital of Japan for 1,000 years. Along the way it developed a rich array of culinary offerings, including yusoku ryori (“imperial food”) and a singular vegetarian cuisine called shojin ryori that was a mainstay at the city’s Buddhist temples. Kyoto was also the center of the tea ceremony, so we can credit the genesis of dishes for tea ceremonies – known as kaiseki ryori – to the city as well.

By the middle of the Edo period (1603-1867) the lower classes in Kyoto were better off financially and could afford to vary their diets as the upper classes did. The special dishes served to high society became the inspiration for obanzai, the Kanzai style of home cooking.

We can trace the term obanzai to a book entitled Nenju banzairoku, published in 1849. Ban here means “poor” or “unsophisticated”; for example, a low-quality green tea is called bancha. Banzai came to mean poor-quality side dishes in Kyoto. Perhaps to compensate for this, the ordinary people of Kyoto commonly celebrated many yearly occasions and events with better-quality dishes. For example, on the first day of the month, they would eat herring with kelp and red beans mixed into rice. Every day that had the number eight in it, for instance, would be feted with something special like seaweed with fried bean curd. On the fifteenth of each month, beans and rice with potato and dried cod would be eaten, and so on.

Takenoko no kakani

In the spring, freshly dug-up bamboo shoots are sold everywhere in Kyoto, and remain a special seasonal treat. For the following obanzai dish, precooked or canned bamboo is an acceptable replacement if fresh bamboo is unavailable.
Takenoko no kakani (Boiled Bamboo Shoots with Dried Bonito Flakes)

Lucy Seligman

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Ingredients

A 4-inch 10cm square of konbu (kelp), wiped with a damp cloth and lightly slashed to release its flavor
18 ounces 500g takenoko (bamboo shoots), boiled* and cut in half lengthwise, then into thick, half-moon slices
2 ¼ cups water
1/3 ounce 10g katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes)
2 tablespoons mirin sweet rice wine
1 to 2 tablespoons white sugar or to taste
3 tablespoons soy sauce

Instructions

Place the kelp, prepared bamboo shoots, water, and dried bonito flakes in a deep saucepan. Bring to a boil and cook, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Add the mirin and sugar, and continue to coil over medium-high heat a further five minutes. Next, add the soy sauce and continue to boil until the liquid has reduced to half – approximately eight minutes.
To serve, place the bamboo shoots and remaining liquid in a decorative serving bowl. Sprinkle with either additional dried bonito flakes, a few sprigs of kinome, or both. Serve hot or at room temperature.
*If using canned or precooked peeled bamboo shoots, drain and rinse them thoroughly in cold water before preparation. If the shoots are fresh, cut off the hard bottom part and boil them in their husks – water left over from washing rice or rice bran is best for this – with a dried red pepper for about one and a half hours to remove bitterness. Let cool, then peel off the husks. Wash well in cold water and continue with preparation.

Notes
Garnish: Additional dried bonito flakes to taste, sprigs of kinome (Japanese prickly ash) or both

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