Category: Traveling

  • Visiting Japan After the Pandemic

    Visiting Japan After the Pandemic

    What’s it like to visit Japan after the pandemic? My friend Sheila recently visited and is kind enough to share her experience as the country finally re-opens!

    Visiting Japan After the Pandemic

    As most of us know, Japan is finally open after being closed to outsiders since the beginning of the pandemic. I suppose we should be thankful – the last time Japan closed, it lasted 200 years!

    This is (mostly) good news to us Japan-lovers but – like everywhere else in the world – things have changed a bit.

    Cherry Blossoms

    I recently returned from 3 ½ weeks where I spent some ‘me’ time, some ‘visiting friends’ time, and two weeks leading my first cherry blossom tour.  I had never visited during cherry blossom time and – I must say – it was incredibly beautiful!  There were a few places that were uncomfortably crowded but most weren’t bad at all.

    Pro tip – if it’s raining, grab your umbrella and head out to the popular places. We walked through the bamboo forest of Arashiyama in Kyoto and Rikugien Gardens in Tokyo and both were nearly empty. And umbrellas look great against cherry blossom trees in your photos!

    BAMBOO FOREST KYOTO

    Are signs in Japan in English or Japanese?

    There are more signs in English than ever before, particularly in the cities. The ill-fated 2020 Olympics surely had an impact on this (particularly in Tokyo).  And when I say ‘In English’, I actually mean ‘In Roman letters’ (romaji) which is really all that you need.

    And, for the situations that are completely in Japanese (some signs, menus, etc.), Google Translate has upped its game considerably in the last few years.  I was able to take a photo of a menu through the app and it would translate it on top of the static picture.  This is SO much better than trying to hold the phone in place so that whatever is in the frame will be translated!  I’m not a super-user tech-whiz so maybe there was a way to do it before, but I hadn’t been aware of it until this trip.

    Is Japan Cash-Only?

    Japan has been one of the last holdouts in the ‘Cash Is King’ camp. There are still places that only take cash (such as small stores and restaurants, food stalls, etc.), but it has changed a lot from my previous visits.  You can use cards for hotels, most restaurants, and even taxis – although if you want to add money to your Suica/Pasmo card, it can still only be done with cash. To my surprise, I found that a number of museums only accept cash for admission so don’t figure you’ll be able to get by with only a credit card or two just yet.

    Do you still have to wear a mask in Japan?

    Masks are not required in most places. You will, of course, still see more people wearing them there than you do here in the U.S. or Canada, but that was true before the pandemic.  Like most people, I usually wore a mask when I went inside stores. I didn’t wear a mask outdoors and found that very few other people did either.  Certainly, if you feel sick (even if it’s just a cold), please DO wear a mask.  That’s only polite!

    Hotels in Japan

    If you’re looking to stay in a Japanese hotel rather than a Marriott or Hyatt – I’d recommend Dormy Inns. They all have in-hotel onsen, also known as hot-spring baths. Their breakfasts come at an additional cost but have a lot of options and I think they’re good value for money. The hotel provides both toiletries and pajamas. Outside the onsen, you can get a free ice cream after your evening soak and a bottle of Yakult (Japan’s famous probiotic beverage) after your morning soak. Another great freebie – between 9:00 and 11:00 pm, steaming bowls of ramen noodles are available. How cool is that??

    Hotels to Avoid When Visiting Japan

    One chain I refuse to patronize is the Apa Hotels. Yes, their prices are good, and they are *everywhere* – but they are owned by a right-wing couple who created controversy in 2017 by defending Japan’s military aggression in World War II.  There was a lot of backlash and, although they seem to be keeping a lower profile now, they haven’t changed their views. As travelers, we need to spend our dollars (or yen) wisely.

    Unique Places to Visit in Japan

    When I travel whether by myself or for my tours, I love finding unique/offbeat places to visit, eat, and experience.  Here are some of my new favorites – and a couple of old ones.

    In Tokyo

    Needing a place for lunch on one of my tour’s Tokyo days, I asked my host daughter to see what she could find. It’s then that we discovered Yakuzen Curry Jinenjo! This curry restaurant delivered both delicious food and a fun experience!  The chef was hilarious and so enthusiastic that it made it more than just a place to eat.  This stop has been permanently added to my tours from this point on!  The restaurant is at 5 Chome-9-25 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo 110-0001.

    A must-visit since I first went to Japan in 2018 is the Theater Puppet Show. My wonderful Tokyo guide, Naomi, took me there when I was on a scouting trip, and I loved it.

    The puppeteer, Mitsuaki Tsuyuki, was first a children’s art teacher but found his true passion in finger puppets. He makes all his own puppets and has been performing the shows since 2000. I was so happy to see that he’s still doing it even after Covid! The venue is small and a bit out-of-the-way spot with limited seating. The 30-minute show is completely in Japanese but so visual that you don’t need any language skills to enjoy it.  It costs just 500 yen – a bargain indeed!  It’s located at 3-2-6, Yanaka, Taito 110-0001 Tokyo Prefecture which is a two-minute walk from Sendagi station on the Chiyoda line or a ten-minute walk from Nippori station (JR or Keisei line).

    Within walking distance of Sensoji Temple, the Wanariya Indigo Dying is an inexpensive, and fun experience!

    INDIGO DYING TOKYO

    The process is explained by their entertaining English-speaking staff. You start with white material (whether it’s a simple square or rectangle – or something more complex like a t-shirt). You are shown how to prepare it for dying, then you go to the vats to do it yourself. Your clothes are always well-protected. The whole process takes about an hour (unless you choose something more complicated) and you will leave with a personal and– easily transported! – souvenir and happy memories.  They are located at the Kurosawa Building 1F, 1-8-10 Senzoku, Taito-ku, Tokyo 111-0031.

    Visit the Asakura Museum of Sculpture

    This museum is located in what had been the home of artist and sculptor, Fumio Asakura. The building is filled with his artwork but it’s nearly a piece of art in itself. My favorite part is the peaceful courtyard full of plants, water fountains, and birdsong. There’s also a rooftop garden with great views of Tokyo. It’s located at 7 Chome-18-10 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo 110-0001.  (Note – you need to remove shoes in order to enter the museum – so be sure to wear nice socks!)

    ASAKURA MUSEUM

    Touring Osaka

    When is a cat café not a cat café?  When it’s the Cat Diorama café! Disclaimer: I LOVE cats!  I have two in my home and would be in grave danger of becoming a crazy cat lady if my space wasn’t so limited.  I have visited a number of cat cafes in Japan, and also in the US, Scotland, Spain, Hungary, and Poland.  You’d think that it would be heaven for me, but I often find them quite disappointing.  The cats are bored with all the attention and, rightly, seek out high spots for some peace and quiet. This is completely understandable but doesn’t make the whole cat café experience very much fun for those who have paid for it.

    Enter the Cat Diorama Café in Osaka.

    CAT DIORAMA CAFE OSAKA

    It started as a restaurant with a miniature train diorama in the main dining area.  Then, Covid hit and hard times for restaurants followed. Naoki Teraoka, the owner of the cafe, rescued a starving kitten he found near his restaurant. Soon the mother cat and her other kittens followed, and he took them all in too. He began taking photos of the cats interacting with the trains and posting them on Instagram. More rescue cats followed and now – in addition to his restaurant – he runs a cat rescue operation. After my tour ended, my best Japanese friend and I spent the afternoon there. This is my idea of heaven.  You can find the restaurant here: 2-5-16 Terada-cho, Tennoji-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 543-0045.

    You can read the whole story and see lots of photos here: https://www.boredpanda.com/stray-cats-saved-diorama-restaurant-japan-naoki-teraoka/

    Touring Hiroshima

    Le Paris Bistro in Hiroshima offers a French twist on Japanese favorites. The prices are reasonable, the atmosphere is nice, and the food is delicious. On my last visit, one of my clients ordered the chocolate mousse and we were all surprised when her dessert arrived shaped like a puppy and with a sparkler stuck into the accompanying sorbet!  It’s located at 3-1-29 Otemachi, Naka-ku, Hiroshima 730-0051. 

    LE PARIS BISTRO DESSERT

    When you visit Hiroshima, the Peace Park is also a must-see but reflecting on those sobering events can create a desire for some serenity. If so, take the short walk to Shukkeien Gardens. On my last tour, my clients stated it was their favorite place in the city.

    What to do in Kyoto

    When I take a group of ladies to Japan, one of the highlights is wearing kimono in Kyoto. First, let me assure you that every Japanese person I’ve talked to is very positive about it. My degrees are in Cultural Anthropology so ‘cultural appropriation’ is something I take seriously.

    If you happen to be plus-sized, choose your kimono rental place carefully. The first time I tried it, more than half of my ladies weren’t able to get kimonos to fit them.  I was MORTIFIED but, thankfully, my Japanese host son was with us, and he found us a place that could accommodate everyone. It’s Yume Kimono Kyoto, the only company I use now – their prices are reasonable and they have several locations in Kyoto.

    Whenever you go to Japan, be sure to embrace the culture, the people, and – of course – the FOOD!  Happy traveling!

    Spring Cherry Blossom Tours in Japan

    My spring cherry blossom tour was so much fun that I decided to do something similar next year.  This time we’ll start a bit later in the season so we will get to experience not only late-blooming cherry blossoms but also azaleas, tulips, peonies, and wisteria.  Sound interesting?  There are still some spaces left! Japanese Gardens in Springtime – April 14-28, 2024. Women-only, no more than 10 on each tour, everyone gets her own room at no extra charge. Details, itinerary, and pricing information here: https://www.wetravel.com/trips/japanese-gardens-in-springtime-sheila-stone-tours-japan-59330831

    I hope you’ve enjoyed this wonderful insight from Sheila as she brought a bit of Japan back to us here in the States! Sheila Stone loves travel so much, she even started her own tour company for women when she was 60.  She creates and leads tours to wonderful places like Japan, England, Scotland, and various US cities, including her hometown of Los Angeles. The groups are no larger than 10 and everyone gets her own room at no additional charge. She specializes in travel that appreciates history, culture, and – of course – delicious food! Being of the firm belief that the best part of travel is the people you meet; she loves connecting local women with her clients.

  • Japantown on Sawtelle in Los Angeles

    Japantown on Sawtelle in Los Angeles

    Japantown on Sawtelle in Los Angeles is about as close to Japan as we’ve been able to get these last two years. As someone who considers Japan to be a second home, the inability to travel to Japan has been rough. One thing that helped (a little anyway…) is knowing I’m not alone in missing Japan. I’d like to introduce my friend Sheila Stone. Sheila loves travel so much that she started her own tour company when she was 60! And today she’s sharing with us some of her favorite spots in Japantown on Sawtelle:

    Japantown on Sawtelle in Los Angeles

    After two years Japan is finally open!  But at this point, there are still some caveats.

    Unless you are a student, business traveler, or relative of long-term/permanent residents, you are required to take a pre-approved packaged tour.  This means no solo travel yet.  You also will need to apply for a visa in advance. Although independent travelers cannot yet enter Japan, there are some signs that they may be able to do so starting in the fall or later.  Of course, it goes without saying that you will need to be vaccinated and wear a mask whenever it’s asked of you.

    While we’re waiting for the rules to relax, let me tell you about a special place in Los Angeles where your Japanese food dreams can come true.  Sawtelle Japantown isn’t as big or as well-known as Little Tokyo in downtown LA, but it packs a big punch.

    The Best Places to Eat in Japantown on Sawtelle

    There are literally dozens of places to eat and drink in its small two-block area.  The restaurants used to be all Japanese but, over the past few years, that has expanded to include Korean, Filipino, Taiwanese, and even a couple of Mexican places.

    In no particular order, here are some of my favorites:

    Beard Papa’s

    Who can resist freshly-filled cream puffs? Not me! Which is why Beard Papa’s definitely tops the list.

    They don’t fill them until you place your order, and the combination of a crispy shell with creamy filling is truly a delight.  Vanilla, chocolate, and green tea custards are always available and sometimes they also offer seasonal fillings (such as pumpkin).  The shells can be plain or frosted with chocolate, matcha, strawberry, or even have a s’more topping. They have other desserts too.  Everything I’ve ever had there was scrumptious! Their creampuffs run $3.75-4.25 each – buy 5 get one free.

    Mochi Dochi

    MOCHI DOCHI MOCHI DOG

    Deep-fried mochi hot dogs at Mochi Dochi! You start by choosing which combination of meat, veggie-dog, or cheese you want. Then pick a batter – plain, squid-ink, or jalapeno-curry. Finally, the dipped dog gets rolled in your choice of potato cubes, sweet potato cubes, or chopped onion. Then it’s all deliciously fried and this is heaven on a stick. Mochi dogs cost between $4.99-6.99, depending on your choices.

    Anzu

    This tiny storefront (there is no indoor seating) has a small menu but they serve some of the best karaage I’ve ever had, including in Japan. You can’t beat freshly made, crispy pieces of chicken with tasty dipping sauces.  Try the ponzu!  It’s just off Sawtelle on La Grange – but definitely worth a walk around the corner! I recommend the Karaage; it’s $6.75 for 5 pieces and 1 dip.

    Marugame Udon

    MARUGAME TEMPURA

    Marugame Udon is a Japanese chain offering both delicious udon soup and a selection of tempura options. I go in for the tempura shrimp and the tempura sweet potato. Interesting story, when I led my 2019 tour to Japan, the second night we were eating at the food court of Tokyo Skytree. Guess where I got my dinner? Bowls of udon run from $5.95-13.95 and tempura is between $1.95-2.25 per piece.

    SomiSomi

    Making Taiyaki

    Taiyaki is a fish-shaped, waffle-like treat that’s usually filled with anko (sweet red bean paste). The taiyaki at SomiSomi are freshly made and come with your choice of fillings – cheddar, Nutella, custard, taro, and Oreo, in additional to anko. They also sell the Korean treat Ah-Boong – fish-shaped cones filled with soft serve ice cream. They are cool-looking as well as delicious! Taiyaki are 3 for $3.95 and 6 for $6.70 and Ah-Boong run about $6.00-$7.00.

    SunMerry Bakery

    SUNMERRY MOCHI DONUTS

    Two words: mochi doughnuts.  And another three words:  Hokkaido Cream Cakes.  You can’t go wrong with either choice. SubMerry Bakery also offers beautiful cakes that are perfect for a birthday or other celebration. This is a tiny place, but their treats are so freaking good! Both mochi doughnuts and Hokkaido cream cakes are $2.00 now.

    B-Sweet

    B-Sweet - Japan Town in Los Angeles

    B-Sweet‘s specialty is many kinds of bread pudding but my favorite choices are ube (purple sweet potato) delights. Since it’s Filipino, I might be cheating a bit putting it into this Japanese blog post but ube is used a lot in Japan so I’m going with it. If you get lucky, B-Sweet’s Ube pop tarts might be on the menu, which is the most fun Asian-American mashup I know!  If they’re out of the pop tarts, opt for the Ube Cheesecake.

    B SWEET UBE CHEESECAKE

    The purple is so vivid it’s hard to believe they didn’t pour in a whole bottle of food coloring, but that’s the natural color of these delicious tubers. And the taste is SO good! The menu changes often but desserts run between $5.00-7.00.

    Kaz – The Soba Place

    Kaz‘s soba is delicious served either hot or cold. But they also have something I’ve never seen anywhere else – tempura cherry tomatoes! Sweet, salty little bites of goodness – just be cautious of the internal temperature of these babies. Oba is $7.00-13.75 and the delicious little tempura cherry tomatoes will only set you back $2.75!

    Chinchikurin

    Okonomiyaki

    Have you had the delicious savory pancake called okonomiyaki? It comes in two variations – Hiroshima-style, in which the ingredients are layered – and Osaka-style, in which the ingredients are all mixed together. Chinchikurin serves Hiroshima style. I always ask for the layer of noodles to be crispy! Since each one is made to order, you can choose meat, seafood, vegetarian, or a whatever combination strikes your fancy. It might take a bit longer to get your order, but the results are absolutely worth it!  Prices run between $16.00 and $22.00, depending on your choices.

    Daiso

    Not a restaurant but definitely a Don’t Miss! Daiso is essentially a Japanese 99ȼ store. A great place for kitchen gadgets, snacks, stationery, and even socks for those of us with smaller feet. Due to the imported nature of their inventory, most things are $1.75, not 99ȼ, but it’s still an amazing deal!

    Sheila StoneAuthor: Sheila Stone loves travel so much that she started her own tour company when she was 60. She personally creates and leads tours to various places in Europe, around the U.S. and – of course! – Japan.  Check out her offerings at www.sheilastonetours.com. Sheila Stone Tours can be found on Facebook and Instagram. All photos by Sheila Stone.

    Fall in Love with Japan Tour – Nov 6 – 20, 2022: for no more than 10 women. Everyone gets her own room at no extra charge. Personally led by Sheila Stone with local Japanese guides. Includes Western-style accommodation in onsen (spa) hotels, all ground transportation (including the Shinkansen – bullet train), all group admissions, and many unique experiences.  We will wear kimono in Kyoto, have a cooking experience in Osaka, and meet both Japanese women and ex-pats living in Japan.

  • Recommended Shojin Ryori Restaurants in Japan

    Recommended Shojin Ryori Restaurants in Japan

    When it comes to sampling authentic Shojin Ryori, there are dozens of options throughout Japan. When it comes to sampling the best of the best, though, there are seven restaurants that you absolutely must check out.

    Must Visit Shojin Ryori Restaurants in Japan

    shojin ryori restaurants in Japan

     

    Shigetsu (Tenryuji, Arashiyama, Kyoto)

    Shojin ryori in red bowls

    This was my very first experience with shojin ryori in Japan. I now visit every time I am in Kyoto as the food is consistently excellent. And strolling around Tenryuji’s immaculate gardens is a wonderful way to end your meal.

    There are three courses to choose from: Yuki (rice, soup, and five side dishes, ¥3,300 yen), Tsuki (rice, soup, and six side dishes, ¥5,500), and Hana (rice, soup, and seven side dishes, ¥8,000).

    500-yen garden admission fee also required.

    Advance reservations can be made online (in English) on the Tenryuji website.

    Hachinoki (Kita-Kamakura, Kanagawa)

    Shojin ryori in red bowls on red platter

    Hachinoki offers up gorgeously presented shojin ryori from an elegant dining room overlooking a small garden with fountains and lush foliage. Seasonal vegetables, tofu, and wheat gluten are artfully arranged into dishes that incorporate the five colors, flavors, and preparation techniques of shojin ryori. The several vegetarian menus range from katsura (3300 yen) to larger, more elaborate presentations such as ume (11000 yen). The building next door (Shinkan) offers up beautifully-plated kaiseki starting from 4600 yen. Advance reservations are required.

    Hours: 11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.(L.O.) / 5 p.m.- 7 p.m.(L.O.)  Dinner (Must be reserved by previous day)

    Closed on Wednesdays

    Access: Across from Tokeiji Temple (about a five-minute walk from JR Kita-Kamakura Station)

    Bon Fucha Ryori (Taito, Tokyo)

    Chinese style fucha ryori on white plate

    Fucha ryori is a distinct departure from Soto and Rinzai Zen shojin ryori. Introduced by the Obaku school of Zen at Manpukuji in Uji in the 17th century, fucha ryori is much closer to its Chinese roots. Traditionally served communal-style, diners help themselves from large plates placed in the center of the table.

    Bon has been in business for decades. Each party is seated in a gorgeous private dining room inside the highly atmospheric restaurant. Dinner from 6,000 yen; lunch boxes available on weekdays for 3,450 yen. Advance reservations required: Phone 03-3872-0375 (reservation time: 10:00-21:00)

    Kakusho (Takayama, Gifu)

    Kakusho Shojin Ryori

    Housed in a 250-year-old residence near Takayama’s temple district, Kakusho has been in the same family for 12 generations. I was shown to a private pavilion set in a stunning Japanese garden and served the meal of a lifetime; the 10-course shojin dinner is a marvel of artistry and the freshest ingredients, set on beautiful tableware.

    Daigo

    It’s important to note two of Tokyo’s most expensive shojin ryori restaurants (Michelin-starred Daigo and Shojin Sougo) both use fish / dashi and eggs in their shojin kaiseki; if you wish to have a completely vegan meal, you must reserve in advance. Visit Daigo’s website here.

    Itosho (Azabujuban, Tokyo)

    Opened by Hiroharu Ito, a 25-year veteran at Kakusho in Hida Takayama, Itosho embraces many of the same dishes as Kakusho. This includes the phenomenal shojin age (vegetable and tofu coated in tiny bits of mochi flour then fried). Dipped into a tiny pile of seasoned salt, the texture and flavors are profound. Stunning food, beautiful tableware, including Takayama lacquerware, and outstanding service have earned Itosho a well-deserved Michelin star. It’s available for both lunch and dinner.

    Sougo

    Sougo can make strict vegetarian cuisine (Bonito flakes, eggs and dairy products free) if you make a reservation 2 days prior to lunch, 1 day prior to dinner. What’s also great is there are two completely vegan shojin courses, Zen for ¥12,000 and Sai for ¥10,000, with limited availability.

    Cooking Schools in Tokyo

    There are several cooking schools in the Tokyo and Kamakura areas where you can learn to cook shojin ryori in English. There’s not reason to not give this healthy and nourishing traditional vegan cuisine a try!

    shojin ryoriy cooking class

    Shojin Ryori classes in English

    Akasaka Teran (Jokokuji, Tokyo): https://akasaka-teran.net/en/index_en.html

    Chagohan Tokyo (Asakusa / Kappabashi): https://www.chagohan.tokyo/booking/shojin-ryori-buddhist-cuisine

    Tokyo Cook (Inside Restaurant Shojin Sougo, Roppongi): https://www.tokyo-cook.com/

    Atelier Café Kamakura (Kamakura): https://www.meetup.com/Atelier-Cafe-Meetup-Kamakura/

    Author Bio

    Sarah HodgesSarah B. Hodge (www.bundtlust.com) is a food and travel writer for several publications in Japan including Tokyo Weekender and Stars and Stripes Japan. She has studied shojin ryori since 2011 with several teachers including Masami Asao, Kakuho Aoe, Daisuke Nomura, and Mari Fujii.

    All photo’s courtesy of Sarah B. Hodge.

     

     

     

    Do you have Lucy’s cookbook yet?

    Osechi cookbook New Year Seligman
    Leave a note in the comments section if you go to any of these restaurants and or cooking classes!


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  • Kettl Tea of Brooklyn, New York

    Kettl Tea of Brooklyn, New York

    Readers are always sharing new “Japanese finds” with me either when I am traveling or at home in the Bay area. This blog post about Kettl Tea is as a result of my niece, Corina Seligman. (Have you read her guest post on sake btw?) She knows of my passionate love of all things Matcha and suggested I go. Since I was staying in Brooklyn for a few nights after dropping my daughter off to college for her freshman year, (Sob, sigh, pride…) the subway was a breeze since my friend and hostess, Susan, is the Subway Master! I can’t wait to go back.kettl tea Brooklyn NY

    During a recent trip to New York City to settle my daughter into her first year of college, I discovered Kettl Tea, an absolutely charming little Japanese tea and ceramic shop, situated in a small gallery space, based in Brooklyn. Although Zach Mangan, the owner, wasn’t there during my visit (I found out later that he was in Japan sourcing tea), my friend Susan and I were excellently taken care by Emma Porter, who was managing the store in his absence.

    It was a very hot and humid late summer day, so I asked Emma if she could make us an iced Matcha flight. She served us two matchas to enjoy.  Uchu, from Uji City, Japan was classically elegant, sophisticated with a mild tart finish. The other one was Hibiki from Hoshinomura, Japan, was creamy, smooth and had a lingering grassy aroma that I adore. Susan had never had Matcha, but fell in love with the taste. Being Matcha-obsessed, I was in heaven. This little oasis of serenity was so enticing, that we lingered over our Matchas, talking to Emma about Kettl’s teas and exquisite teaware ceramics, and her passion for kaiseki ryori (traditional Japanese multi-course haute cuisine) for a long time.

    Kettlkettl tea Brooklyn NY sells a wide variety of Japanese teas, from Matcha, Sencha, Gyokuro to Soba Cha, Oolong, to Houjicha and so on.

    They call themselves a NYC/Fukuoka based tea company. Like Breakaway Matcha on the West Coast, Kettl, sources their teas directly from 14 different growers/suppliers that they have a personal and ongoing relationship with from 8 different prefectures in Japan. They consider them all to be their partners. Their teas are shipped weekly from Fukuoka, Japan. Once again, I love finding small companies in the States who are obsessed with introducing hand-crafted Japanese beverages and or foods. I will be writing about another find of mine called The Japanese Pantry here in the Bay Area in an upcoming posting.

    Next time, I plan to make a day of it and visit Okonomi Restaurant, which serves Japanese breakfast in the mornings and Ramen at night! I love it! Like Kettl, they also offer cooking classes. According to Kettl’s website, Japanese tea is their passion. No doubt about that!

    Kettl Tea
    150 Ainslie St., 2nd Floor, Brooklyn NY, 11211
    Open Weekdays 11am – 4pm / Weekends 11am – 6pm
    Closed Tuesday and Wednesday

    All photos © copyright Jonathan Hokklo.

    kettl tea Brooklyn NY kettl tea Brooklyn NY

     

     

     

     


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  • Japan: 25 Years Later

    Japan: 25 Years Later

    Returning to Japan visitI recently returned to Japan for a long-planned for visit after a 25 year absence. Really?! It just never felt like it had been that long, probably because a part of my heart has always resided in Japan—ever since I first visited its shores when I was 15 years old.  But this trip was a little different and very special; for I was joined by my teenage daughter for her high school graduation present. This was her first trip to Japan and I don’t know who was more excited to go there! We planned the details of this trip for months and months, consuming a lot of homemade Japanese dinners, and watching endless vlogs on Japan that my daughter discovered in the process.

    Despite 2 mild earthquakes, a typhoon, the rainy season, flooding in Kyoto and deadly heat and humidity, we managed to cram in an amazing amount of activities and food! during our 2 week visit. I will be posting separate posts on our food experiences in both Tokyo and Kyoto, etc.

    But this post is about what I experienced and thought about during this trip, going back after such a long absence, and seeing Japan as a Japanese-speaking quasi-tourist versus a long-term resident.

    A few days into the trip, I asked my daughter what she thought of Japan. She replied, “I love it! I want to come back, but when it is cooler so I can wear layers!” I beamed with a huge smile, and thought, my job is done here!

    So in no particular order, here it goes:

    Japan Travel Tips:

    Portable WIFI and Japanese Sim Cards

    Unless you have a really affordable international plan for your phone, reserve a portable WIFI for pick up at a Japanese airport in advance. It was a lifesaver to have it because surprisingly, WIFI isn’t always readily accessible in Japan. The other trick I learned was to buy a Japanese Sim card upon arrival to replace your usual sim card. It worked for my daughter’s Iphone, but not for my Android. Regardless, we had no additional charges for phone use. Also, download the very popular LINE app to use while there for instant messages, etc. Having your own WIFI is also crucial if you plan to do any traveling on your own. Google maps, etc will become your best friend!

    Accessibility

    I will be honest that if I wasn’t still recovering from 2 broken ankles, I may not have even noticed. Sometimes walking to an escalator and or elevator at a train or subway station was such a long schlep, which made using the stairs (however slowly) quicker. On the other hand, I noticed a lot of accessible public bathrooms.  The day we flew back to USA, there was a big article in one of the English newspapers that Tokyo is really working on enhancing accessibility before the 2020 Olympics. Good!

    Travel Light

    Travel light in Japan, especially if you plan to use the trains to venture out around the islands. Space is limited in hotel rooms, and on trains and you are the one carrying everything!

    The heat and humidity

    I had forgotten how suffocating and all-encompassing hot it is when you land in Japan during the summer, much less when you step out of a shower. You are drenched in sweat. Houses don’t typically have central air, so moving from room to room can be very hot and sweaty as well. Handkerchiefs and small padded face towels are a big business in Japan, especially during the summer.  They even have shops dedicated to just those items. I came home with a colorful selection of both!

    Lack of street parking

    There is no street parking readily available in Tokyo in the suburbs due to lack of space and narrow roads, I guess. And parking is very pricey and limited. The up side? Public transportation is readily available and cost-efficient.

    Following the rules

    Train and subway stations are very orderly, even during rush hour (an experience in and of itself), and it is because everyone follows the rules; whether it be which side to walk on (going up and down stairs), or where to wait and or line up for a train or subway. But, beware, it is also regional! Kyoto stations were the opposite to Tokyo’s in terms of what side to walk up or down on!

    Suica cards

    These easy pre-paid smart cards can be used in public transportation (such as subway, trains, buses, monorail) and also can be used at a lot of stores, taxis, vending machines and so on.

    7-11 stores

    We ended up at these stores a lot, as they are one of the few that lets you pull out cash from their ATM machine using an American debit card.

    Signage

    Street and highway signs are in both Japanese and English. Yeah! Train and subways stations and on the trains/subways have signage in Japanese, English, Chinese, and Korean. And there are digital displays inside the trains/subways as well, also in Japanese, English, Chinese and Korean.

    Feeling Safe

    Never crossed our minds that we weren’t safe and this included wandering around Kyoto at night in alleyways so that my daughter could take pictures and videos.

    visit japan

    Musings 25 years later:

    Japan is/remains my happy place

    I smiled for 2 weeks straight, 24/7! I would wake up smiling every morning. I started dreaming in Japanese and in color from the first night. It was fun that my primary language for the two weeks was Japanese.

    The friendliness of the Japanese

    My daughter had 4 years of high school Japanese under her belt, but had never tackled the public transportation system in Japan, while using her Japanese, which she insisted on doing on her own a number of times. Despite getting lost many times, she always made it back safe and sound. The first time she got lost, she asked an obaachan (Granny) for help, who couldn’t help but asked a younger woman. That wonderful woman walked my daughter to the nearest station and made sure she got on the right train! Wouldn’t have ever happened here in the States.

    Missing seeing Mt. Fuji

    I even reserved seats on the right side of the bullet train to Kyoto so that we could see it, but alas, the weather wasn’t being agreeable both times we were on the bullet train. Disappointing as I love seeing Mt. Fuji. Oh well, next time.

    No bad meals

    We never had a bad meal for the whole 2 weeks we were there. Can’t say the same if you were visiting the US! Every meal we had was also visually beautiful and appealing. More on food in upcoming blog posts.

    sharing meals in japan

     

    Catching up with old friends

    It felt like yesterday catching up in person and on Facebook Messenger with old friends, some I hadn’t seen in too many years. As my old friend Doug said “Ok, give me the Reader’s digest version of the last 25 years of your life!” We ended up talking non-stop for close to 3 hours.

    Bizarre Crimes

    When I lived in Japan, there was the underwear thief, but he only stole foreigner’s undies from clothes lines on verandas in Tokyo. Happily, he never found my undies as I always lived too high up! I heard from a long-term Tokyo resident from California, that the latest ‘bizarre’ crime is a man squirting mustard on women and running away. An urban myth, shaggy dog story or ?

    How international Japan has become

    When I lived in Japan, I always stood out as a foreigner everywhere I went. No more. Everywhere we went, whether in city centers and or suburbs, there was always a plethora of foreign residents and foreign-owned businesses. Wonderful to see all the different faces and hear all the different languages.

    Lawson (convenience store franchise chain, originally from the US)

    When I lived in Japan and wanted tortillas, I had to make them with masa flour I brought back from the States. Lawson not only had a variety of Mexican foods, but also had selections of gluten-free, organic, and Indian foods.

    100 and 300 yen stores + Hello Kitty

    We loved these affordable stores, both to pick up practical items, but also the whimsical. Where else can you find Hello Kitty snack bags?!

    Speaking of Hello Kitty, there is a Hello Kitty store at Haneda Airport and also there is a special bullet train decorated as Hello Kitty.

    Trying to buy left-handed knives

    Finding a good fish knife to cut sashimi etc. was a big goal for me for this trip. But, being a lefty prevented me from finding one! I must have gone into 5 different stores in Tokyo’s Kappabashi area (the kitchen ware area), but no luck.

    What did we miss most?

    Sofas to lounge on! Of course, if we had visited during the colder months, we would have been able to lounge around in a kotatsu (Japanese heated table) on the floor.

    We can’t wait to go back and are already planning where to go, where to shop, what to eat, etc.

    Osechi book by Lucy Seligman

    When was your last trip to Japan? What made it memorable? Reply in the comments and let me know!


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  • Canada Travels: Part 2–Victoria, BC

    Canada Travels: Part 2–Victoria, BC

    I fell in love in Victoria–His name was Sampson, a noble horse. He took us on a horse-drawn Tally-Ho Carriage Tour through the historic James Bay neighborhood where some of the oldest houses in Victoria still stand. Amazingly, Alisa, my hostess, knew the lively and engaging female carriage driver. She turned out to be a godsend as she recommended we dine at Il Covo Trattoria, where I became quite smitten with our blue-eyed very tall Roman server, we shall call him Luigi, from Italy. As the night wore on, and I drank more vino!, I was able to converse and yes, flirt quite a bit with him in Italian. It was July 1st, and everybody in Canada was in a very happy and festive mood, waiting for the fireworks to begin to celebrate their 150th birthday. We sat out in their lovely garden, as dusk came on, eating and drinking, then wandered back to our hotel, Inn at Laurel Point, for a nightcap, before the fireworks began.

    AURA Waterfront Restaurant + Patio

    How lucky were we that the Executive Chef at AURA Waterfront Restaurant + Patio restaurant and patio at Inn at Laurel Point is Japanese? His name is Takashi Ito and his food is amazing! We enjoyed quite a few meals at Aura Waterfront, and I loved the Japanese and Asian inspired elements that were wrapped into dishes from breakfast to dinner and the attention to detail in the dishes, which let’s face it, is unusual in a hotel restaurant.

    Watermelon Salad
    Watermelon Salad (and photo credit) by AURA Waterfront Restaurant + Patio

    Some of the highlights included an amusing take on Eggs Benedict at breakfast called Seafood Latkes Benny with okonomiyaki pancake as its base with shrimp, smoked salmon, kimchi hollandaise, seaweed salad, etc, a beautifully presented and delicious Watermelon and Sprout Salad with yuzu caviar, and a white soy glaze, the most fabulous Asian-style Risotto with sea asparagus (used a lot in British Columbia and one of my new favs), coconut, bonito flakes, spot prawns, and some delicious desserts such as a Deconstructed Shortcake which used yuzu foam, and almond sesame crisps to a lovely Panna Cotta which included sake jelly and cherry blossoms. We floated back to our room, feeling very well fed,  continuing to rave about our dinner and planning our next visit to Aura.

    Panna Cotta credit AURA waterfront restaurant
    Panna Cotta (and photo credit) by AURA Waterfront Restaurant + Patio

     

    Shortcake (and photo credit) by AURA Waterfront Restaurant + Patio

     

    Seafood Latkes Benny (and photo credit) by AURA Waterfront Restaurant + Patio

     

     

    Sooke Harbour House Resort Hotel

    We also drove out to the legendary Sooke Harbour House Resort Hotel and ate in their restaurant. This is a gorgeous country inn set on a bluff overlooking the stunning Salish Sea (aka the Straits of Juan de Fuca). Our corner table faced a corner of their three acre pristine garden filled with edible flower blossoms and rare herbs and in the distance, the mesmerizing sea. Again, I loved the Japanese influences in so many of the dishes.

    Since we were having brunch, we started with spicy Bloody Mary’s that included sea asparagus, a Chargrilled Lettuce Salad with smoked feta and pickled shallots, and a Sashimi platter that included the most tender octopus and melt in your mouth freshly caught salmon. Okay, I will admit we ate a lot more dishes!, but we couldn’t tear ourselves away from the food and the view.

    Sooke Harbor Bloody Mary Sooke Harbor Sashimi Plate

    I had such a great time in beautiful Victoria, that I want to go back and keep eating!

    Leave a note in the comments section (see below) with your favorite Japanese restaurant in Canada!

     



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  • Canada Travels: Part 1–Vancouver, BC

    Canada Travels: Part 1–Vancouver, BC

    Canadian restaurant japaneseJust back from a wonderfully fulfilling and fun gastronomic trip to Vancouver and Victoria. I was thrilled to see how much of a Japanese influence on food there is in Canada. I had planned this trip without realizing that Canada turned 150 years old on July 1st! So young. Lol. I celebrated watching fireworks with the rest of Victoria in front of my hotel, Inn at Laurel Point, overlooking the Marina. Gorgeous!

    Here are some highlights:

    I stayed in the Pt. Grey area of Vancouver in the Western part of the city near the water. It’s a lovely residential area and I was within walking distance to 4th Ave., filled with great restaurants, shopping, etc.

    Yuji’s

    220-2083 Alma St., just off of 4th Ave. www.yujis.ca

    My friend and hostess, Alisa, called Yuji’s her neighborhood Japanese restaurant, but it is more than that. The owner, Yuji, has worked at and owned another restaurant in Vancouver named Yuji’s Japanese Tapas. In 2011, he left for Jakkarta to open a restaurant, but a year later found his way back to Vancouver. He opened up Yuji’s, a smaller more intimate neighborhood restaurant.

    Although we didn’t order it, he offers a variety of Omakase and most ‘locals’ sit at the sushi bar and watch him prepare dishes. Everything we ate was delicious and beautifully presented. Yuji imports most of his fish directly from Japan. We ate grilled sablelfish, beef tongue and duck breast. The uni (sea urchin) was so briny, and so luscious on your tongue.

    La Quercia

    3689 W. 4th Ave., www.laquercia.ca

    La Quercia, also in the Pt. Grey area features Northern Italian cuisine. I really felt I was back in Italy, eating divine dishes such as home-made Tagliatatelle with a rich Gorgonzola sauce and one of my all-time favorites, Vitello Tonnato—from the Piedmont region. Cold, sliced veal (you can also use turkey) covered with a melt-in-your-mouth creamy smooth sauce that has been flavored with Italian oil-packed tuna, lots of lemon juice and capers.

    Other places I ate at included:

    • Purebread for a bacon-chive-cheddar cheese scone just near Gastown in the downtown area.
    • Rosemary Rocksalt Bagels in North Vancouver, a chain that serves chewy Montreal-style bagels that were amazing!
    • And even the local pub, The Cove, served a wonderful roasted tri-color beet salad with crispy yam fries with aioli.
    • I went to the public market on Granville Island, and picked up Vanilla-infused Maple Syrup and Maple butter to bring home.
    • And as I was leaving Vancouver airport, I picked up Candied Smoked and Maple Glazed Salmon (other Canadian specialty products) as gifts.

    Leave a note in the comments section (see below) with your favorite Japanese restaurant or shop in Canada!


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