What’s it like to visit Japan after the pandemic? My friend Sheila recently visited and is kind enough to share her experience as the country finally re-opens!

Visiting Japan After the Pandemic

As most of us know, Japan is finally open after being closed to outsiders since the beginning of the pandemic. I suppose we should be thankful – the last time Japan closed, it lasted 200 years!

This is (mostly) good news to us Japan-lovers but – like everywhere else in the world – things have changed a bit.

Cherry Blossoms

I recently returned from 3 ½ weeks where I spent some ‘me’ time, some ‘visiting friends’ time, and two weeks leading my first cherry blossom tour.  I had never visited during cherry blossom time and – I must say – it was incredibly beautiful!  There were a few places that were uncomfortably crowded but most weren’t bad at all.

Pro tip – if it’s raining, grab your umbrella and head out to the popular places. We walked through the bamboo forest of Arashiyama in Kyoto and Rikugien Gardens in Tokyo and both were nearly empty. And umbrellas look great against cherry blossom trees in your photos!

Are signs in Japan in English or Japanese?

There are more signs in English than ever before, particularly in the cities. The ill-fated 2020 Olympics surely had an impact on this (particularly in Tokyo).  And when I say ‘In English’, I actually mean ‘In Roman letters’ (romaji) which is really all that you need.

And, for the situations that are completely in Japanese (some signs, menus, etc.), Google Translate has upped its game considerably in the last few years.  I was able to take a photo of a menu through the app and it would translate it on top of the static picture.  This is SO much better than trying to hold the phone in place so that whatever is in the frame will be translated!  I’m not a super-user tech-whiz so maybe there was a way to do it before, but I hadn’t been aware of it until this trip.

Is Japan Cash-Only?

Japan has been one of the last holdouts in the ‘Cash Is King’ camp. There are still places that only take cash (such as small stores and restaurants, food stalls, etc.), but it has changed a lot from my previous visits.  You can use cards for hotels, most restaurants, and even taxis – although if you want to add money to your Suica/Pasmo card, it can still only be done with cash. To my surprise, I found that a number of museums only accept cash for admission so don’t figure you’ll be able to get by with only a credit card or two just yet.

Do you still have to wear a mask in Japan?

Masks are not required in most places. You will, of course, still see more people wearing them there than you do here in the U.S. or Canada, but that was true before the pandemic.  Like most people, I usually wore a mask when I went inside stores. I didn’t wear a mask outdoors and found that very few other people did either.  Certainly, if you feel sick (even if it’s just a cold), please DO wear a mask.  That’s only polite!

Hotels in Japan

If you’re looking to stay in a Japanese hotel rather than a Marriott or Hyatt – I’d recommend Dormy Inns. They all have in-hotel onsen, also known as hot-spring baths. Their breakfasts come at an additional cost but have a lot of options and I think they’re good value for money. The hotel provides both toiletries and pajamas. Outside the onsen, you can get a free ice cream after your evening soak and a bottle of Yakult (Japan’s famous probiotic beverage) after your morning soak. Another great freebie – between 9:00 and 11:00 pm, steaming bowls of ramen noodles are available. How cool is that??

Hotels to Avoid When Visiting Japan

One chain I refuse to patronize is the Apa Hotels. Yes, their prices are good, and they are *everywhere* – but they are owned by a right-wing couple who created controversy in 2017 by defending Japan’s military aggression in World War II.  There was a lot of backlash and, although they seem to be keeping a lower profile now, they haven’t changed their views. As travelers, we need to spend our dollars (or yen) wisely.

Unique Places to Visit in Japan

When I travel whether by myself or for my tours, I love finding unique/offbeat places to visit, eat, and experience.  Here are some of my new favorites – and a couple of old ones.

In Tokyo

Needing a place for lunch on one of my tour’s Tokyo days, I asked my host daughter to see what she could find. It’s then that we discovered Yakuzen Curry Jinenjo! This curry restaurant delivered both delicious food and a fun experience!  The chef was hilarious and so enthusiastic that it made it more than just a place to eat.  This stop has been permanently added to my tours from this point on!  The restaurant is at 5 Chome-9-25 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo 110-0001.

A must-visit since I first went to Japan in 2018 is the Theater Puppet Show. My wonderful Tokyo guide, Naomi, took me there when I was on a scouting trip, and I loved it.

The puppeteer, Mitsuaki Tsuyuki, was first a children’s art teacher but found his true passion in finger puppets. He makes all his own puppets and has been performing the shows since 2000. I was so happy to see that he’s still doing it even after Covid! The venue is small and a bit out-of-the-way spot with limited seating. The 30-minute show is completely in Japanese but so visual that you don’t need any language skills to enjoy it.  It costs just 500 yen – a bargain indeed!  It’s located at 3-2-6, Yanaka, Taito 110-0001 Tokyo Prefecture which is a two-minute walk from Sendagi station on the Chiyoda line or a ten-minute walk from Nippori station (JR or Keisei line).

Within walking distance of Sensoji Temple, the Wanariya Indigo Dying is an inexpensive, and fun experience!

The process is explained by their entertaining English-speaking staff. You start with white material (whether it’s a simple square or rectangle – or something more complex like a t-shirt). You are shown how to prepare it for dying, then you go to the vats to do it yourself. Your clothes are always well-protected. The whole process takes about an hour (unless you choose something more complicated) and you will leave with a personal and– easily transported! – souvenir and happy memories.  They are located at the Kurosawa Building 1F, 1-8-10 Senzoku, Taito-ku, Tokyo 111-0031.

Visit the Asakura Museum of Sculpture

This museum is located in what had been the home of artist and sculptor, Fumio Asakura. The building is filled with his artwork but it’s nearly a piece of art in itself. My favorite part is the peaceful courtyard full of plants, water fountains, and birdsong. There’s also a rooftop garden with great views of Tokyo. It’s located at 7 Chome-18-10 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo 110-0001.  (Note – you need to remove shoes in order to enter the museum – so be sure to wear nice socks!)

Touring Osaka

When is a cat café not a cat café?  When it’s the Cat Diorama café! Disclaimer: I LOVE cats!  I have two in my home and would be in grave danger of becoming a crazy cat lady if my space wasn’t so limited.  I have visited a number of cat cafes in Japan, and also in the US, Scotland, Spain, Hungary, and Poland.  You’d think that it would be heaven for me, but I often find them quite disappointing.  The cats are bored with all the attention and, rightly, seek out high spots for some peace and quiet. This is completely understandable but doesn’t make the whole cat café experience very much fun for those who have paid for it.

Enter the Cat Diorama Café in Osaka.

It started as a restaurant with a miniature train diorama in the main dining area.  Then, Covid hit and hard times for restaurants followed. Naoki Teraoka, the owner of the cafe, rescued a starving kitten he found near his restaurant. Soon the mother cat and her other kittens followed, and he took them all in too. He began taking photos of the cats interacting with the trains and posting them on Instagram. More rescue cats followed and now – in addition to his restaurant – he runs a cat rescue operation. After my tour ended, my best Japanese friend and I spent the afternoon there. This is my idea of heaven.  You can find the restaurant here: 2-5-16 Terada-cho, Tennoji-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 543-0045.

You can read the whole story and see lots of photos here: https://www.boredpanda.com/stray-cats-saved-diorama-restaurant-japan-naoki-teraoka/

Touring Hiroshima

Le Paris Bistro in Hiroshima offers a French twist on Japanese favorites. The prices are reasonable, the atmosphere is nice, and the food is delicious. On my last visit, one of my clients ordered the chocolate mousse and we were all surprised when her dessert arrived shaped like a puppy and with a sparkler stuck into the accompanying sorbet!  It’s located at 3-1-29 Otemachi, Naka-ku, Hiroshima 730-0051. 

When you visit Hiroshima, the Peace Park is also a must-see but reflecting on those sobering events can create a desire for some serenity. If so, take the short walk to Shukkeien Gardens. On my last tour, my clients stated it was their favorite place in the city.

What to do in Kyoto

When I take a group of ladies to Japan, one of the highlights is wearing kimono in Kyoto. First, let me assure you that every Japanese person I’ve talked to is very positive about it. My degrees are in Cultural Anthropology so ‘cultural appropriation’ is something I take seriously.

If you happen to be plus-sized, choose your kimono rental place carefully. The first time I tried it, more than half of my ladies weren’t able to get kimonos to fit them.  I was MORTIFIED but, thankfully, my Japanese host son was with us, and he found us a place that could accommodate everyone. It’s Yume Kimono Kyoto, the only company I use now – their prices are reasonable and they have several locations in Kyoto.

Whenever you go to Japan, be sure to embrace the culture, the people, and – of course – the FOOD!  Happy traveling!

Spring Cherry Blossom Tours in Japan

My spring cherry blossom tour was so much fun that I decided to do something similar next year.  This time we’ll start a bit later in the season so we will get to experience not only late-blooming cherry blossoms but also azaleas, tulips, peonies, and wisteria.  Sound interesting?  There are still some spaces left! Japanese Gardens in Springtime – April 14-28, 2024. Women-only, no more than 10 on each tour, everyone gets her own room at no extra charge. Details, itinerary, and pricing information here: https://www.wetravel.com/trips/japanese-gardens-in-springtime-sheila-stone-tours-japan-59330831

I hope you’ve enjoyed this wonderful insight from Sheila as she brought a bit of Japan back to us here in the States! Sheila Stone loves travel so much, she even started her own tour company for women when she was 60.  She creates and leads tours to wonderful places like Japan, England, Scotland, and various US cities, including her hometown of Los Angeles. The groups are no larger than 10 and everyone gets her own room at no additional charge. She specializes in travel that appreciates history, culture, and – of course – delicious food! Being of the firm belief that the best part of travel is the people you meet; she loves connecting local women with her clients.

Japantown on Sawtelle in Los Angeles is about as close to Japan as we’ve been able to get these last two years. As someone who considers Japan to be a second home, the inability to travel to Japan has been rough. One thing that helped (a little anyway…) is knowing I’m not alone in missing Japan. I’d like to introduce my friend Sheila Stone. Sheila loves travel so much that she started her own tour company when she was 60! And today she’s sharing with us some of her favorite spots in Japantown on Sawtelle:

Japantown on Sawtelle in Los Angeles

After two years Japan is finally open!  But at this point, there are still some caveats.

Unless you are a student, business traveler, or relative of long-term/permanent residents, you are required to take a pre-approved packaged tour.  This means no solo travel yet.  You also will need to apply for a visa in advance. Although independent travelers cannot yet enter Japan, there are some signs that they may be able to do so starting in the fall or later.  Of course, it goes without saying that you will need to be vaccinated and wear a mask whenever it’s asked of you.

While we’re waiting for the rules to relax, let me tell you about a special place in Los Angeles where your Japanese food dreams can come true.  Sawtelle Japantown isn’t as big or as well-known as Little Tokyo in downtown LA, but it packs a big punch.

The Best Places to Eat in Japantown on Sawtelle

There are literally dozens of places to eat and drink in its small two-block area.  The restaurants used to be all Japanese but, over the past few years, that has expanded to include Korean, Filipino, Taiwanese, and even a couple of Mexican places.

In no particular order, here are some of my favorites:

Beard Papa’s

Who can resist freshly-filled cream puffs? Not me! Which is why Beard Papa’s definitely tops the list.

They don’t fill them until you place your order, and the combination of a crispy shell with creamy filling is truly a delight.  Vanilla, chocolate, and green tea custards are always available and sometimes they also offer seasonal fillings (such as pumpkin).  The shells can be plain or frosted with chocolate, matcha, strawberry, or even have a s’more topping. They have other desserts too.  Everything I’ve ever had there was scrumptious! Their creampuffs run $3.75-4.25 each – buy 5 get one free.

Mochi Dochi

Deep-fried mochi hot dogs at Mochi Dochi! You start by choosing which combination of meat, veggie-dog, or cheese you want. Then pick a batter – plain, squid-ink, or jalapeno-curry. Finally, the dipped dog gets rolled in your choice of potato cubes, sweet potato cubes, or chopped onion. Then it’s all deliciously fried and this is heaven on a stick. Mochi dogs cost between $4.99-6.99, depending on your choices.

Anzu

This tiny storefront (there is no indoor seating) has a small menu but they serve some of the best karaage I’ve ever had, including in Japan. You can’t beat freshly made, crispy pieces of chicken with tasty dipping sauces.  Try the ponzu!  It’s just off Sawtelle on La Grange – but definitely worth a walk around the corner! I recommend the Karaage; it’s $6.75 for 5 pieces and 1 dip.

Marugame Udon

Marugame Udon is a Japanese chain offering both delicious udon soup and a selection of tempura options. I go in for the tempura shrimp and the tempura sweet potato. Interesting story, when I led my 2019 tour to Japan, the second night we were eating at the food court of Tokyo Skytree. Guess where I got my dinner? Bowls of udon run from $5.95-13.95 and tempura is between $1.95-2.25 per piece.

SomiSomi

Taiyaki is a fish-shaped, waffle-like treat that’s usually filled with anko (sweet red bean paste). The taiyaki at SomiSomi are freshly made and come with your choice of fillings – cheddar, Nutella, custard, taro, and Oreo, in additional to anko. They also sell the Korean treat Ah-Boong – fish-shaped cones filled with soft serve ice cream. They are cool-looking as well as delicious! Taiyaki are 3 for $3.95 and 6 for $6.70 and Ah-Boong run about $6.00-$7.00.

SunMerry Bakery

Two words: mochi doughnuts.  And another three words:  Hokkaido Cream Cakes.  You can’t go wrong with either choice. SubMerry Bakery also offers beautiful cakes that are perfect for a birthday or other celebration. This is a tiny place, but their treats are so freaking good! Both mochi doughnuts and Hokkaido cream cakes are $2.00 now.

B-Sweet

B-Sweet‘s specialty is many kinds of bread pudding but my favorite choices are ube (purple sweet potato) delights. Since it’s Filipino, I might be cheating a bit putting it into this Japanese blog post but ube is used a lot in Japan so I’m going with it. If you get lucky, B-Sweet’s Ube pop tarts might be on the menu, which is the most fun Asian-American mashup I know!  If they’re out of the pop tarts, opt for the Ube Cheesecake.

The purple is so vivid it’s hard to believe they didn’t pour in a whole bottle of food coloring, but that’s the natural color of these delicious tubers. And the taste is SO good! The menu changes often but desserts run between $5.00-7.00.

Kaz – The Soba Place

Kaz‘s soba is delicious served either hot or cold. But they also have something I’ve never seen anywhere else – tempura cherry tomatoes! Sweet, salty little bites of goodness – just be cautious of the internal temperature of these babies. Oba is $7.00-13.75 and the delicious little tempura cherry tomatoes will only set you back $2.75!

Chinchikurin

Have you had the delicious savory pancake called okonomiyaki? It comes in two variations – Hiroshima-style, in which the ingredients are layered – and Osaka-style, in which the ingredients are all mixed together. Chinchikurin serves Hiroshima style. I always ask for the layer of noodles to be crispy! Since each one is made to order, you can choose meat, seafood, vegetarian, or a whatever combination strikes your fancy. It might take a bit longer to get your order, but the results are absolutely worth it!  Prices run between $16.00 and $22.00, depending on your choices.

Daiso

Not a restaurant but definitely a Don’t Miss! Daiso is essentially a Japanese 99ȼ store. A great place for kitchen gadgets, snacks, stationery, and even socks for those of us with smaller feet. Due to the imported nature of their inventory, most things are $1.75, not 99ȼ, but it’s still an amazing deal!

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Author: Sheila Stone loves travel so much that she started her own tour company when she was 60. She personally creates and leads tours to various places in Europe, around the U.S. and – of course! – Japan.  Check out her offerings at www.sheilastonetours.com. Sheila Stone Tours can be found on Facebook and Instagram. All photos by Sheila Stone.

Fall in Love with Japan Tour – Nov 6 – 20, 2022: for no more than 10 women. Everyone gets her own room at no extra charge. Personally led by Sheila Stone with local Japanese guides. Includes Western-style accommodation in onsen (spa) hotels, all ground transportation (including the Shinkansen – bullet train), all group admissions, and many unique experiences.  We will wear kimono in Kyoto, have a cooking experience in Osaka, and meet both Japanese women and ex-pats living in Japan.

I recently returned to Japan for a long-planned for visit after a 25 year absence. Really?! It just never felt like it had been that long, probably because a part of my heart has always resided in Japan—ever since I first visited its shores when I was 15 years old.  But this trip was a little different and very special; for I was joined by my teenage daughter for her high school graduation present. This was her first trip to Japan and I don’t know who was more excited to go there! We planned the details of this trip for months and months, consuming a lot of homemade Japanese dinners, and watching endless vlogs on Japan that my daughter discovered in the process.

Despite 2 mild earthquakes, a typhoon, the rainy season, flooding in Kyoto and deadly heat and humidity, we managed to cram in an amazing amount of activities and food! during our 2 week visit. I will be posting separate posts on our food experiences in both Tokyo and Kyoto, etc.

But this post is about what I experienced and thought about during this trip, going back after such a long absence, and seeing Japan as a Japanese-speaking quasi-tourist versus a long-term resident.

A few days into the trip, I asked my daughter what she thought of Japan. She replied, “I love it! I want to come back, but when it is cooler so I can wear layers!” I beamed with a huge smile, and thought, my job is done here!

So in no particular order, here it goes:

Japan Travel Tips:

Portable WIFI and Japanese Sim Cards

Unless you have a really affordable international plan for your phone, reserve a portable WIFI for pick up at a Japanese airport in advance. It was a lifesaver to have it because surprisingly, WIFI isn’t always readily accessible in Japan. The other trick I learned was to buy a Japanese Sim card upon arrival to replace your usual sim card. It worked for my daughter’s Iphone, but not for my Android. Regardless, we had no additional charges for phone use. Also, download the very popular LINE app to use while there for instant messages, etc. Having your own WIFI is also crucial if you plan to do any traveling on your own. Google maps, etc will become your best friend!

Accessibility

I will be honest that if I wasn’t still recovering from 2 broken ankles, I may not have even noticed. Sometimes walking to an escalator and or elevator at a train or subway station was such a long schlep, which made using the stairs (however slowly) quicker. On the other hand, I noticed a lot of accessible public bathrooms.  The day we flew back to USA, there was a big article in one of the English newspapers that Tokyo is really working on enhancing accessibility before the 2020 Olympics. Good!

Travel Light

Travel light in Japan, especially if you plan to use the trains to venture out around the islands. Space is limited in hotel rooms, and on trains and you are the one carrying everything!

The heat and humidity

I had forgotten how suffocating and all-encompassing hot it is when you land in Japan during the summer, much less when you step out of a shower. You are drenched in sweat. Houses don’t typically have central air, so moving from room to room can be very hot and sweaty as well. Handkerchiefs and small padded face towels are a big business in Japan, especially during the summer.  They even have shops dedicated to just those items. I came home with a colorful selection of both!

Lack of street parking

There is no street parking readily available in Tokyo in the suburbs due to lack of space and narrow roads, I guess. And parking is very pricey and limited. The up side? Public transportation is readily available and cost-efficient.

Following the rules

Train and subway stations are very orderly, even during rush hour (an experience in and of itself), and it is because everyone follows the rules; whether it be which side to walk on (going up and down stairs), or where to wait and or line up for a train or subway. But, beware, it is also regional! Kyoto stations were the opposite to Tokyo’s in terms of what side to walk up or down on!

Suica cards

These easy pre-paid smart cards can be used in public transportation (such as subway, trains, buses, monorail) and also can be used at a lot of stores, taxis, vending machines and so on.

7-11 stores

We ended up at these stores a lot, as they are one of the few that lets you pull out cash from their ATM machine using an American debit card.

Signage

Street and highway signs are in both Japanese and English. Yeah! Train and subways stations and on the trains/subways have signage in Japanese, English, Chinese, and Korean. And there are digital displays inside the trains/subways as well, also in Japanese, English, Chinese and Korean.

Feeling Safe

Never crossed our minds that we weren’t safe and this included wandering around Kyoto at night in alleyways so that my daughter could take pictures and videos.

Musings 25 years later:

Japan is/remains my happy place

I smiled for 2 weeks straight, 24/7! I would wake up smiling every morning. I started dreaming in Japanese and in color from the first night. It was fun that my primary language for the two weeks was Japanese.

The friendliness of the Japanese

My daughter had 4 years of high school Japanese under her belt, but had never tackled the public transportation system in Japan, while using her Japanese, which she insisted on doing on her own a number of times. Despite getting lost many times, she always made it back safe and sound. The first time she got lost, she asked an obaachan (Granny) for help, who couldn’t help but asked a younger woman. That wonderful woman walked my daughter to the nearest station and made sure she got on the right train! Wouldn’t have ever happened here in the States.

Missing seeing Mt. Fuji

I even reserved seats on the right side of the bullet train to Kyoto so that we could see it, but alas, the weather wasn’t being agreeable both times we were on the bullet train. Disappointing as I love seeing Mt. Fuji. Oh well, next time.

No bad meals

We never had a bad meal for the whole 2 weeks we were there. Can’t say the same if you were visiting the US! Every meal we had was also visually beautiful and appealing. More on food in upcoming blog posts.

 

Catching up with old friends

It felt like yesterday catching up in person and on Facebook Messenger with old friends, some I hadn’t seen in too many years. As my old friend Doug said “Ok, give me the Reader’s digest version of the last 25 years of your life!” We ended up talking non-stop for close to 3 hours.

Bizarre Crimes

When I lived in Japan, there was the underwear thief, but he only stole foreigner’s undies from clothes lines on verandas in Tokyo. Happily, he never found my undies as I always lived too high up! I heard from a long-term Tokyo resident from California, that the latest ‘bizarre’ crime is a man squirting mustard on women and running away. An urban myth, shaggy dog story or ?

How international Japan has become

When I lived in Japan, I always stood out as a foreigner everywhere I went. No more. Everywhere we went, whether in city centers and or suburbs, there was always a plethora of foreign residents and foreign-owned businesses. Wonderful to see all the different faces and hear all the different languages.

Lawson (convenience store franchise chain, originally from the US)

When I lived in Japan and wanted tortillas, I had to make them with masa flour I brought back from the States. Lawson not only had a variety of Mexican foods, but also had selections of gluten-free, organic, and Indian foods.

100 and 300 yen stores + Hello Kitty

We loved these affordable stores, both to pick up practical items, but also the whimsical. Where else can you find Hello Kitty snack bags?!

Speaking of Hello Kitty, there is a Hello Kitty store at Haneda Airport and also there is a special bullet train decorated as Hello Kitty.

Trying to buy left-handed knives

Finding a good fish knife to cut sashimi etc. was a big goal for me for this trip. But, being a lefty prevented me from finding one! I must have gone into 5 different stores in Tokyo’s Kappabashi area (the kitchen ware area), but no luck.

What did we miss most?

Sofas to lounge on! Of course, if we had visited during the colder months, we would have been able to lounge around in a kotatsu (Japanese heated table) on the floor.

We can’t wait to go back and are already planning where to go, where to shop, what to eat, etc.

When was your last trip to Japan? What made it memorable? Reply in the comments and let me know!

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