Tag: toasted sesame seeds

  • Regional Recipe Corner: Tai Meshi from Shikoku Island

    Regional Recipe Corner: Tai Meshi from Shikoku Island

    Shikoku Island (the smallest island in Japan) may have only four prefectures, but when it comes to regional cuisine, it is very wealthy. I had the chance to eat my way through the whole island when living in Japan. What struck me the most, was that, although most of the cuisine is fish-based, I never got bored eating fish every day. Each dish was a new adventure in tastes and textures.

    Map of Japan shikoku island

    Tai Meshi Recipe

    One day, we stopped at a restaurant in, Uwajima, Kochi Prefecture, called Gansui. One dish was Tai Meshi. It was a simply crafted dish that was wonderful. I’ll include my version of it in my Shikoku Island tribute.

    Chazuke is either hot or cold cooked rice, topped with a variety of ingredients, and usually immersed in hot green tea or stock. The practice of mixing rice with a liquid began back in the Heian era (794-1185). This recipe is an exception, a chakuze variation called shiru-kake meshi.

    Various regional versions of chakuze can be sampled around Japan. On Shikoku Island, another local chakuze is bokkake. Bokkake’s main ingredient varies from place to place–rabbit and mackerel are just two that come to mind. The main ingredient is cooked together with lots of different vegetables, almost like a stew, then everything is poured over hot rice.

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    sea bream for Tai Meshi recipe

    Tai Meshi

    Lucy Seligman
    No ratings yet
    Course Main Course
    Cuisine Japanese
    Servings 4

    Ingredients
      

    • 9 ounces (or 250g) sliced fresh tai (sea bream), cut sashimi-style
    • 3+ cups hot, firmly cooked Japanese white rice

    Cold Dashi Stock: Fast Version*

    • 2 cups water
    • 1 teaspoon dashi stock granules
    • 3 tbsp soy sauce
    • 1 tbsp mirin (sweet sake)
    • 1/8 teaspoon salt

    Condiments:

    Instructions
     

    • Make the dashi stock by placing all the ingredients into a saucepan and bring to a boil. Stir to combine well. Cool to room temperature, then chill well in the refrigerator until ready to use.
    • To serve, divide the cold dashi stock into four 1/2 cup servings. Place into four bowls and top with a freshly cracked egg. Divide the sea bream into four servings, and place attractively onto four small plates. Place the garnishes in small bowls on the table. Each person mixes the egg into the stock and adds the sea bream. Let sit to marinate for a few minutes, stirring occasionally. Divide the hot rice into four rice bowls and bring them to the table. Pour the fish/stock mixture over the hot rice, and top with the condiments. Stir lightly and eat.

    Notes

    *Of course you can make your own from scratch as well.
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    Some Other Shikoku Specialties: A mini-survey

    Sanuki Udon: From Kawaga Prefecture. Firmly textured and chewy udon noodles (thickly cut) are dipped into a strongly flavored soy-based sauce, with sesame seeds and minced green onions as condiments.

    Sobagome Zosui: Soba (buckwheat) grains are cooked in a flavored dashi/soy sauce stock, with bits of chicken, fishcake, and vegetables. Chopped trefoil (mitsuba) or green onions are sprinkled over the top and the dish is eaten like a thick soup.

    Tai Men (Men Kake): A whole sea bream is boiled. It is then dipped into cold somen (Japanese vermicelli) sauce, with the cold noodles (usually five different colors of somen are used.) Garnishes for the fish include thinly sliced boiled egg, sweetened cooked shiitake mushrooms, all dramatically presented on one big platter, with the whole fish in the center.

    Another Type of Tai Meshi: A whole sea bream is cooked in rice. Considered a Japanese classic.

    Sawachi Ryori: A culinary masterpiece of Tosa cooking, a traditional dish of Kochi Prefecture. Gorgeous platters, usually with diameters of 40 to 60 centimeters, offer a selection of every imaginable food; from local sashimi to katsuo no tataki, grilled fish, lightly flavored boiled vegetables, and many others.

    Local Products from Shikoku Prefectures

    Local products from Kagawa Prefecture:

    Onions, melons, grapes, winter persimmons, sea bream, shrimp, conger eel and udon noodles. In the old days, it was essential for a bride to arrive in her new home with a rolling pin and a cutting board to make homemade udon. Produces the largest amount of olives in Japan. 和三盆WASANBON(a special sugar produced in Kagawa or Tokushima Prefecture) used to make Wagashi (tea ceremony sweets).

    Local products from Tokushima Prefecture:

    Lotus root, spinach, carrots, yuzu (a fragrant citrus fruit),  Sudachi (すだち) is a  sour green Japanese citron fruit and sora-mame (a broad bean). Narutokintoki is a well-known sweet potato in this area. Narutowakame (なるとわかめ) is also famous.

    Local Products from Kochi Prefecture:

    Yuzu (Japanese citron) is also grown here for yuzu jam, miso, juice, and vinegar. Local fish includes top-quality skipjack and tuna.

    Aonori (fresh green nori) from Shimanto River is famous.  Aonori is used for sprinkling over Okonomiyaki.

    Buntan (Tosa Buntan), is a large Kochi orange with a taste that is very refreshing (さっぱり).

    Local Products from Ehime Prefecture:

    The most famous product is mikan oranges and other varieties of Japanese oranges. The largest chestnut harvest in Japan is located here, and the best katsuobushi (dried bonito shavings). There are also salt fields in Ehime.

  • Shojin Ryori: The Spirit of the Japanese Zen Kitchen

    Shojin Ryori: The Spirit of the Japanese Zen Kitchen

    What is Shojin Ryori?

    gomadofu
    Photo by Sarah B. Hodge

    Despite the image of Japan as a land of seafood, wagyu beef and other carnivorous delights, there is a longstanding tradition of vegetarian temple food known as Shojin Ryori. Dating back to the 13th century, this beautiful and healthful cuisine is deeply rooted in Zen philosophy and nourishes the mind as well as the body.

    Introduced to Japan in the 13th century by Dogen Zenji (founder of Soto Zen), Shojin Ryori is a deceptively simple yet sophisticated vegan cuisine still served at Buddhist temples today.

    Dogen outlined the principles of shojin ryori in his Tenzo Kyōkun (典座教訓), Instructions for the Cook, which is still the manual that guides meal preparation at monasteries and temples around Japan. The word “shojin” is made up of the characters for “spirit” and “to progress” and is often translated as “devotion food” in English.

    Dogen taught that there are three minds: magnanimous mind (daishin), joyful mind (kishin) and nurturing mind (roshin). When preparing meals, the tenzo (chef) should embrace all three minds and every step of meal preparation should be done with total attention and mindfulness.

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    Balance and seasonality are of utmost importance in the Zen kitchen.

    Presentation is simple, with no ostentatious garnishes or “unorthodox” ingredients (including imported fruits and vegetables). Tableware depends on settings; in Soto Zen monasteries, monks eat from a special set of nesting bowls called oryoki. In shojin ryori restaurants and on special occasions, meals are served in lacquered bowls on raised lacquered trays.

    Shojin ryori is based on the “rule of five”: five elements (godai), five colors (green, yellow, red, black, and white), five flavors (sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami), and five cooking methods (raw, stewed, boiled, roasted, and steamed). In addition to seasonal herbs and vegetables, shojin ryori uses many forms of tofu and wheat gluten.

    Meals are carefully prepared according to these principles. Cooking itself becomes an act of meditation and mindfulness, and those being served eat with a deep appreciation for the land, the ingredients, and the farmers and producers that were involved at each step of the process. The Japanese phrase “itadakimasu” recited before meals actually comes from Gokan-no-ge (the Five Reflections), which Buddhists recite before meals:

    1. Engage with the food. Consider how nature’s miracles and people’s hard work have culminated in the creation of the food you are about to enjoy.
    2. Reflect upon your day and yourself. Contemplate whether your actions make you worthy of the meal in front of you.
    3. Observe whether your own spirit is pure like the food.
    4. Chew slowly and enjoy every bite. Good food is medicine. It is a way of rejuvenating and purifying your fatigued body.
    5. Be thankful for all, and eat with gratitude.

    Some tips to making Gomadofu (Sesame tofu):

    gomadofu sesame tofu
    Photo by Sarah B. Hodge

     

    One of the most recognizable dishes of shojin ryori is gomadofu, sesame tofu. Despite having “tofu” in the name, the dish does not contain soy and is made from only three ingredients: sesame paste, kuzu starch, and water. You can use white, golden or black toasted sesame seeds for this dish.

    To make authentic gomadofu, you will need serious arm power and stamina as hand-grinding the sesame seeds in a suribachi (mortar) with a surikogi (pestle made from prickly ash wood) takes anywhere between 30 to 40 minutes. Store-bought white or black sesame seed paste (or even tahini) can also be used, but I prefer to make gomadofu the way it has been made for centuries.

    Sarah Hodges

    Author Bio

    Sarah B. Hodge (www.bundtlust.com) is a food and travel writer for several publications in Japan including Tokyo Weekender and Stars and Stripes Japan. She has studied shojin ryori since 2011 with several teachers including Masami Asao, Kakuho Aoe, Daisuke Nomura, and Mari Fujii.

    Recipes may include affiliate links, so without costing you anything extra, I’ll earn a small percentage of the sales if you purchase these items through these links. Thank you for supporting Thanks for the Meal!

    gomadofu sesame tofu

    GOMADOFU (ごま豆腐) | SESAME TOFU

    No ratings yet
    Servings 4

    Ingredients
      

    • 70 grams toasted sesame seeds (white, golden, or black), or sesame paste/tahini
    • 50 grams kuzu starch, grind down into super-fine powder before adding as it is less likely to result in lumps.

    • 400 ml filtered water

    Condiments

    • Grated ginger, wasabi and soy sauce to taste

    Instructions
     

    If using a Suribachi:

    • Add the sesame seeds all at once and continue to grind until you have a smooth paste AND the seeds have released their oils (it usually takes between 30-40 minutes). Slowly add filtered water little by little and mix well.

    If using jarred Sesame Paste or Tahini:

    • Add along with the filtered water and mix well.

    Continue with Recipe:

    • Pour the sesame seed water through a strainer into a medium-sized pot or saucepan (if using a traditional Japanese strainer, take care not to press down on the mesh as it breaks easily). Once all the water / sesame seed paste has been added to the pot, slowly pour in the kuzu starch and incorporate with a whisk (do this step off the heat).
    • Using a medium flame, whisk the sesame seed mixture frequently. It will continue to thicken. Bring to a boil and stir vigorously, for about 20 minutes; the mixture will change in both texture and color and become more translucent (especially if using white sesame) and will look like a thick pudding.
    • Pour the sesame tofu into a square or decorative mold that has been dampened with water or sprayed with nonstick cooking spray (I have made gomadofu with metal, silicone, and plastic molds and all three will work).
    • Bang on a flat surface to remove trapped air bubbles and smooth the top (don’t worry if there are wrinkles; this will be at the bottom once you unmold).
    • Let cool to room temperature (this can be done more quickly by placing the mold (in a larger pan and surrounding with ice water) then store in the refrigerator.
    • Unmold onto a cutting board and slice using a knife dipped in hot water between each cut (if using decorative silicone or plastic molds, simply unmold directly onto your serving dish).
    • Garnish with grated ginger, wasabi, and a drizzle of soy sauce and enjoy!
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